Route Conditions

Squak Glacier - 2011

2011-07-07T18:35:00.000-07:00

Squak Glacier - July 4, 2011

The Squak Glacier route is currently very direct to the crater rim and makes for an outstanding climb or ski. After leaving from Crag View and the Metcalf Moraine area, the route ascends gradually over some large rolling convexities for nearly 2,000 ft. before encountering its first exposed crevasse crossing. This crevasse, at approximately 8,200 ft, is best passed to the climbers left or skiers right by end running the crack rather than crossing the current airy bridge. From here, good coverage exists up to about 8,600 ft. Beyond that, up to the crater rim, a series of crevasses will require some meandering in order to pass safely. Once reaching the crater rim, climbers from the Squak will then merge onto the Easton Route to complete the climb to the summit plateau and Grant Peak. Sun cups exist below 7,000 ft and within the Crag View and Metcalf Moraine area. Additionally, it is important, that all visitors are aware of the hazards that are present within the Crag View and Metcalf Moraine terrain. Moats, mounlins, large cliffs and areas of unstable snow and rock are located throughout these moraines and drainages. These features may not be visible from above or below until you are right on top of them. All travelers should be mindful of these obstacles and make it a habit to survey and evaluate the anticipated terrain before you blindly descend, ski, or glissade into an untraveled or unfamiliar territory. Lastly, all overnight and day users are asked to use Blue Bags or Wag Bags to collect and pack out all human waste.

North Ridge 2011

2011-06-17T11:49:00.000-07:00

North Ridge, September 18, 2011

North Ridge Above, Views of the Approach
Across the Coleman Glacier Below

North Ridge, August 19, 2011

North Ridge, Apron and Northern Approach

North Ridge, June 5, 2011

North Ridge and Apron Approach 6/5/11

North Ridge Ice Pitches 6/5/11

There are currently no current reports in on the North Ridge. However, these are recent photos of the route. Please stay tuned for updates!

Coleman Headwall - 2011

2011-06-17T11:31:00.000-07:00

Coleman Headwall - August 19, 2011

Coleman Headwall - June 19, 2011

There are no reports for the Coleman Headwall at this time. However, these are recent photos of the route. Please stay tuned for updates!

Coleman Headwall - June 5, 2011

Coleman Headwall 6/5/11

Coleman Headwall - Option Right 6/5/11

Coleman Headwall - Option Left 6/5/11

There are no reports for the Coleman Headwall at this time. However, these are recent photos of the route. Please stay tuned for updates!

Boulder Glacier 2011

2011-06-17T11:11:00.000-07:00

Boulder Glacier - September 11, 2011

Boulder/Park Cleaver Route as seen
from Grant Peak

Current Top Out on the Boulder Glacier Route

Boulder Glacier - August 8, 2011

View of Boulder/Park Cleaver route from summit.

Road #1130 and #1131 are clear to the Boulder Ridge Trailhead.

Half a dozen large trees are fallen accross the trail in the first 2 miles. The trail is generally wet, muddy and infrequently maintained. Use caution on the final rock scramble to gain Boulder Ridge as it is currently wet and slippery.

Runnels and suncups exist on snowfields below 8,000 ft. Snow is becoming soft and slushy by mid-morning. Early alpine starts are highly encouraged.

The Boulder/Park Cleaver route is currently in acceptable shape for climbing. The route up the cleaver itself is still mostly snow covered and there are a few rock crossings to negotiate. Above the cleaver there are 3-4 major crevasse crossings, all of which have small snow bridges that will be melting out fast. It is smart to protect these hazards using pickets or other snow anchors. The route through these hazards will likely change quickly. The final headwall to the summit crest is straight forward. This side of the mountain generally sees less traffic and there are ample opportunities for wildlife viewing. Toilets have not been installed at the Boulder Ridge campsites and climbers are reminded to carry Blue Bags in order to pack out all waste. Be safe and happy climbing!

View from summit of final crevasse crossing on upper Boulder Glacier.

Boulder Glacier - July 10, 2011

Check out this trip report from our visitors Mark and Michelle:

We climbed the Boulder/Park Cleaver on Sunday the 10th. The route is still in great shape. A bit of a struggle through the forest, but that's to be expected. We reached continuous snow just below the meadow near the end of the established trail. From there, it was smooth sailing up the ridge continuing on to the cleaver. The Boulder glacier itself is still quite filled in and not that broken up yet. Once we reached the top of the cleaver and moved on to the upper Boulder glacier, things started to get interesting. We had to negotiate through several sags and open crevasses. The 'schrund below the summit rocks is mostly open already. We found a thin bridge to cross and then worked our way up to just below the headwall. Moving above the crater, we punched through several times and found a few crevasse crossings to be quite sketchy. After we summitted, we skied roped up through the upper section. Making it through all the hazards, we unroped and enjoyed a LONG ski descent all the way to the forest. Excellent ski conditions with smooth corn snow and minimal suncups. Awesome climb on the quiet side of the mountain. We all agreed that the route still had a week or two left. Once the bridge falls at the top, the 'schrund will be quite difficult to manage. Good luck.

Boulder Glacier - June 5, 2011

There are no reports in yet for the Boulder Glacier. However, this is a current photo of the route as of 6/5/11. Please stay tuned for updates!

Easton Glacier - 2011

2011-06-06T08:41:00.000-07:00

Easton Glacier - September 11, 2011

A View of the Deming, Easton and Squak Glacier Routes

Easton Glacier - September 5, 2011

The Easton Glacier route is in excellent shape for mountaineering. Large runnels and suncups exist on snowfields below 9,000 ft. Coverage is still generally good on the entire route and no new snow has been received in the last two weeks.

From Sandy Camp, the route follows the right edge of the ridge before gaining the glacier above Climber's Camp at about 7,200 ft. Between Climber's Camp and the crater rim there are currently significant crevasse crossings at about 8,300 ft, 8,600 ft, and 9,000 ft, including one large step-over. The final crater wall also contains one large crevasse that is passed by following the leftward traversing bootpack. The summit register on Grant Peak is now visible and available for entries. Climbers are encouraged to get early alpine starts as the snow is becoming soft and slushy by mid-morning. Toilets are available for use at Railroad Grade, High, Sandy and Climber's Camps. Remember to take Blue Bags or Wag Bags for use on route and always pack out all garbage. Enjoy the rest of the season!

Easton Glacier - August 22, 2011

The Easton Glacier Route currently makes for an enjoyable climb to the summit of Mount Baker. Presently, the entire route is still covered by snow from this past winter and the hard icy slopes of the dry glacier have yet to expose themselves. Climbers can now find nearly a dozen dry tent sites at both Sandy and Climber's Camps along with nearby running water.

The route itself crosses no open or airy crevasses at this time. However, the bridged crevasses at 8,500 ft, 9,000 ft, at the Crater Rim, and along the upper Deming Glacier are continuing to deteriorate and are most safely negotiated in the early hours of the day when conditions are firm. Climbing parties should consider protecting these hazards and, as always, thoroughly evaluate the condition of the existing bridges prior to crossing. Climbers should also pay close attention to the corridor leading up to the Crater Rim, as this section of the route usually requires a change of course by this point in the season.

As sunny weather and warmer temperatures persist through the end of our summer, previously established tent sites and alpine vegetation have finally begun to melt out and show themselves. Thus far, due to a shortage in exposed dry tent sites, the Climbing Rangers have noticed an unacceptable increase in the construction of new tent sites and rock walls. Construction of new tent pads, rock walls, cooking screens, irrigation trenches or any other alteration or modification to the natural landscape is prohibited. All overnight users should be prepared to camp on snow should there be a lack of dry sites available at the time of their arrival. Therefore, parties need to be equipped with a ground cloth or footprint and some form of a snow anchor in order to secure their shelters. Using rocks to tie off and secure tents is acceptable, as long as the rocks are not taken from dry ground where they play an important role in providing and maintaining soil stability for present and pioneering flora. Lastly, please practice 'Pack It In, Pack It Out' techniques and remember to sweep your camps for any garbage or food scraps before heading off the mountain. As always, be safe and happy climbing

A view from Sandy Camp looking north up the ridge
towards Climbers Camp and the Easton Glacier Route.

Easton Glacier - August 8, 2011

Climbers should find excellent conditions on the Easton Glacier for the month of August. Snow conditions are holding strong as are the snow bridges along the route. Areas of most concern still remain around 8,500 ft. and 8,800 ft. as these crevasses and their bridges are slowly showing signs of deterioration. All parties should continue to monitor and assess these crossings.

Furthermore, the corridor below the crater rim at approximately 9,500 ft. and a couple spots on the upper Deming Glacier around 10,200 ft. have also begun to show their cracks. Climbers should monitor these sections for additional deterioration as well.

Mountain toilets are available for use at Railroad, High, Sandy and Climbers Camps for human waste only. Please continue to pack out all your garbage as the toilets are not trash receptacles. Thanks and happy climbing!

Easton Glacier - July 25, 2011

The Easton Glacier is in great condition for late July and should carry us safely well into August. The camps above 6,000 ft. are still under snow and no running water exists at this time. Mountain toilets have been installed at various locations on the south side of Mt. Baker including High Camp, Sandy Camp and Climbers Camp. Please do not put any trash into these toilets. Blue Bags & Wag Bags are still to be used while on route or in areas without toilets.

The Easton route is still very direct to the crater rim and then up to the summit plateau. Climbers & Skiers should use caution and evaluate the crevasse crossings at approximately 8,500 ft, 8,800 ft, and 9,000 ft very thoroughly. The crevasses open very large and are historically the most posing hazards on the route. A last reminder to please pack out all of your waste. Thanks and be safe out there.

Easton Glacier - July 4, 2011

Easton Glacier from Sandy Camps

Snow covered Sandy Camps

The Eastoncarvable corn slopes that are all between 30 to 40 degree angles. Although the snow coverage on the route is still quite favorable, skiers and climbers should thoroughly inspect and evaluate the crevasses at 8,500 ft. and 8,800 ft.

Crevasse crossing at 8,500 ft. on Easton Glacier

The bridges should be closely monitored, as they have begun to show signs of deterioration. These two areas are considered some of the largest hazards on the route and are known to undergo substantial change over the course of the season. All travelers should use great care and pay close attention when negotiating these crossings. Lastly, as a reminder, all overnight and day users are asked to use Wag Bags or Blue Bags to collect and pack out human waste. They can both be acquired free of charge from either the Sedro-Woolley or Glacier Visitor Centers.

Looking up at the 8,800 ft crevasse from 8,500 ft bench.

Easton Glacier - June 12, 2011

Looking up Rocky Creek and the Easton Glacier

Sandy Camp looking towards the Twin Sisters Range

Roman Wall (upper left) Crater Wall (upper right)

The Easton Glacier Route is in excellent early season condition. After leaving Sandy Camp and Climber's Camp, which are still completely snow covered, the route takes a direct line towards the crater rim. Little traversing is needed to negotiate crevasses, but quickly melting in the snowpack will change the hazards. Watch for the cracking or sagging on the route and climb early, while the snow is still hard, to prevent risk. By noon the snow is becoming soft and many hidden crevasses will be unsafe. A good bootpack exists from Sandy Camp to the summit and there are no open crevasses on the roman wall or final 1000 ft. of the Easton. All parties need to be familiar with glacier travel & travel in avalanche terrain. All overnight visitors should also plan to camp on snow and be equipped with enough fuel to melt snow for water. Always remember to pack out all of your waste and use blue bags or wag bags for managing human waste. Happy and safe climbing!

Schrieber's Meadow to Sandy Camp & Easton Glacier - June 5, 2011

Approaching the Crater Rim on the Easton Route with a view of the Crater Wall to the upper left.

Forest Road #12 is clear to road #13. Once on road #13 you can drive to within 2 miles of Schrieber's Meadow before reaching snow. Please use caution and drive slowly , washboards do exist on the roads.

Both the Park Butte and Railroad Grade trails are snow covered. Skis, snowshoes and or boots are recommended for the hike.

Spring snow conditions exist on the mountain. Anticipate slushy, wet corn snow during the day and afternoon with snow surfaces hardening up in the evening , overnight and early morning.

The Easton Glacier route is in excellent early season shape. After leaving Sandy and Climbers camps at approximately 6-7000 ft. the route takes a very direct line of travel towards the crater rim. Currently, little to no traversing is needed to negotiate the major crevasses at 8,000 and 8,800 ft. on the route. These crevasses are well covered and bridged at this time. Climbers and skiers should be most concerned with getting early alpine starts and beginning their descents before noon. All groups are encouraged to be off the glacier by 2:00 pm, in order to minimize the risk and exposure to avalanches and failing snow bridges. Furthermore, all parties need to be familiar with and prepared for travel in avalanche terrain. All overnight visitors should also plan to camp on snow and be equipped with enough fuel to melt snow for drinking water, as there are no dry tent sites nor areas with exposed running water. Lastly, a reminder to please pack out all your waste and to use methods such as Blue Bags or Wag Bags for managing all human waste. Thanks and happy climbing!

Coleman - Deming 2011

2011-06-03T23:14:00.001-07:00

Coleman - Deming Route - August 29, 2011

Glacier Creek Road is open and clear to the Heliotrope Ridge Trailhead and the Mount Baker Vista. Please drive cautiously.

The Grouse Creek bridge crossing is now melted out and extremely dangerous to cross at the site of the old footbridge. Hikers and Climbers are being advised to cross at your own risk far below or above this site. The remaining avalanche debris that destroyed the footbridge and fills the drainage is dangerously thin in spots and contains many holes and cracks which lead to the steep and narrow creek some 25 feet below. An accident at this hazard could prove fatal and great precaution should be taken when crossing the creek above or below.

The Coleman-Deming route is looking excellent for this late in the season. The route leaves the Hogsback and ascends suncupped slopes up to the Black Buttes. Few crevasses are exposed through this section which is very uncharacteristic for this point in the season. Climbers should be aware though of the hazards that lurk beneath the surface as well as the importance of setting out early in the morning and getting a good alpine start to the climb. From the Black Buttes the route continues skirting along the Coleman Glacier, under Colfax peak and then to the saddle. Again few crevasses are visibly being stepped over through this leg of the climb. The bergschrund at roughly 8,800 ft. is sagging and opening more to either side, but overall showing good coverage and stability for this late in the summer. Pumice Ridge is nearly stripped of its snow and melted out fully to the rock while the Roman Wall has various staircase bootpacks that ascend to the summit plateau. As the rock band continues to melt out at the top of the Roman Wall, footing in this section will become poor. Climbers are urged to use caution while ascending or descending through this area and to be contientious not to congest this common bottleneck. The summit register is now melted out and all visitors are free to sign in the logbook. Please do not, however, dispose of your trash or put any items into the box, thank you. Mountain toilets can be found at the Black Butte Camps and the Hogsback Camps. Please be sure to sweep your camps and pack out all other food scraps, and garbage before departing. Be safe and happy climbing!

Coleman - Deming Route - August 15, 2011

Glacier Creek Road is clear to Heliotrope Ridge Trailhead. A few deep potholes exist so drive slowly.

Heliotrope Ridge Trail is snow free all the way to the Hogsback campsites, except for Grouse Creek drainage, which can still be crossed on snow but is melting out fast. The trail to Harrison Camp and Survey Rock is also mostly snow free and rivers are crossed via hopping rocks. Trekking poles are recommended.

Large runnels and suncups are present on snowfields below 8,000 ft. A few inches of fresh snow was received above 9,000 ft in the last two days. Snow is becoming soft by late morning and firming up overnight.

The route up the Coleman-Deming glacier is in excellent shape for climbing and there are still no major route-finding obstacles. A bootpack leaves Hogsback Ridge and travels directly up the Football Field, past Black Buttes, and crosses two large snow bridges at about 8,300 ft and 8,800 ft respectively. These bridges should remain in good condition for at least a few weeks. Pumice Ridge still contains patchy snow but is becoming more rocky with time. The rock band at the top of the Roman Wall is beginning to be exposed as snow continues to melt, but the route is still straightforward and direct to the Crater Rim. Hogsback Ridge currently contains 20-25 dry campsites with more melting out quickly. Harrison Camp and Gargoyle Rocks also contain 3-6 dry campsites each. Running water is available at all campsites except Black Buttes. Users are reminded not to move rocks or construct walls around campsites. Toilets are available at both Hogsback Ridge and Black Buttes. Be sure to carry Blue Bags for use on route and remember to pack out all garbage. Do not put Blue Bags or garbage in toilets! Happy climbing!

Seracs on the lower Coleman Glacier provide an excellent
opportunity for those looking to hone their ice climbing skills.

Heliotrope Ridge Trail to Hogsback Camps to Coleman-Deming Glacier - August 1, 2011

Mt. Baker and Hogsback Campsites from the west.

Heliotrope Ridge Trail is mostly snow free all the way to Hogsback Campsites, except for Grouse Creek and other snowy patches above 5000ft. The trail to Harrison Camp also contains patchy snow and open river crossings. Remember to stay on established trails and please do not cut switchbacks.

Hogsback Ridge is mostly snow free.

Mid-season snow conditions are prevalent on the mountain with large suncups and runnels developing below 8000ft. Some new snow has been received above 9500ft in the past two weeks. Snow is still firming up overnight and becoming soft by late morning.

Some new wet snow has been received above 9500ft.

The route up the Coleman-Deming Glacier is in excellent condition and there are no major obstacles to negotiate at this time. The bootpack leaves Hogsback Ridge and travels directly up the Football Field, passing Black Buttes and crossing a large snowbridge over the bergschrund at about 8800ft. Pumice Ridge is still mostly snow covered although a few large rock outcrops have melted out and more rock will be melting out daily. The Roman Wall does not yet contain any open crevasses, but it is becoming soft and slushy by late morning. Climbers are encouraged to get early alpine starts in order to avoid post-holing on the descent. The summit register on Grant Peak is not yet visible.

The route from Hogsback Campsites to the saddle is very direct.

The bootpack is wide and obvious.

There are currently 15-20 dry campsites at Hogsback Ridge and running water is available. There are also dry campsites at Harrison Camp and Gargoyle Rocks (4-5 sites). 2 mountain toilets are ready for use at Hogsback Ridge and 2 more have been situated at Black Buttes. Remember to carry extra fuel for melting snow if camping at Black Buttes. Always carry Blue Bags or Wag Bags for use on route and never deposit these, or any other pieces of garbage, in the mountain toilets.

Gargoyle Rocks has 4-5 dry campsites available.

The Climbing Rangers would also like to remind users to avoid the dangerous moat that exists just to the west of Hogsback Ridge. This hazard continues to melt out and it will become larger as the season progresses. Please give this hazard a wide birth when descending. As always, be safe and happy climbing!

The dangerous moat near Hogsback Ridge.

A close-up of the moat showing orange fencing in place.

Heliotrope Ridge Trail to Hogsback Camps to Coleman-Deming Glacier - July 25, 2011

North side of Mt. Baker in evening light.

Heliotrope Ridge Trail is snowfree for approximately 2 miles, except for Grouse Creek and other drainages, which are still filled with leftover snow from late-winter avalanches. Use caution when crossing rivers because the snowpack could be melting from the bottom up. Hogsback Ridge itself is still partially snow covered with dry patches of trail separated by soft snow.

Use caution on snow-covered creek crossings
like this one at about 4500ft.

The snowpack on the north side of Mount Baker is melting fast, and many suncups and runnels are developing below 8000ft. Some fresh snow has been received above 9000ft in recent weeks. The snow is still firming up at night, and becoming soft and slushy by midday.

There are currently 10-15 dry campsites at Hogsback Ridge with more melting out daily. Running water is now available near the trail and at some campsites. Two mountain toilets have been installed and are available for use at Hogsback Ridge. Two more mountain toilets are available for use at the Black Buttes. Remember to use Blue Bags or Wag Bags when away from the toilets and to always carry these out when you leave. Do not put garbage, Blue Bags, or Wag Bags into the mountain toilets.

Hogsback campsites with two mountain toilets
visible on rock in bottom left corner of frame.

The Coleman-Deming Glacier is in excellent condition for climbing, skiing and snowboarding. An obvious and wide bootpack leaves Hogsback Ridge campsites and travels directly up the Football Field to Black Buttes. The route then goes to the climber’s left, crossing a large snowbridge over the bergschrund at about 8800ft and gaining the saddle. Pumice Ridge is mostly snow covered, although a few rock patches are beginning to appear. Skiers should use caution here to avoid striking buried rock with their skis. The Roman Wall does not yet contain open crevasses, but some signs of sagging are beginning to develop. The summit register on Grant Peak is still buried. Colfax Peak can also still be climbed and parties have been observed successfully reaching the summit. Climbers are reminded to establish separate bootpacks for descending and ascending. Ideally, the descending bootpack will be established next to the ascending bootpack on the downhill side. This will make it much easier for all climbers to enjoy the route. See you on the mountain!

Pumice Ridge has a few open rocks but is still mostly snow covered.

Bootpack leading to the saddle, then up Pumice Ridge and the Roman Wall

Heliotrope Trailhead to Hogsback Camps to Coleman-Deming Route - July 12, 2011

Mt. Baker's north side as viewed from Hogsback Campsites.

Heliotrope Ridge trail is snowfree for approximately 2 miles past the trailhead, except for small and infrequent patches. The snowpack is melting fast so use caution when crossing snow bridges over rivers and other hazards. The trail is also muddy until it becomes consistent snow at about 4200ft.

Spring snow conditions are prevalent on the mountain. Above 6000ft, the snow is becoming firm overnight and is then becoming soft and slushy after noon on sunny days. Above 7000ft, the snowpack is still clean and flat with very few suncups or runnels, which makes for an enjoyable ski.

Conditions on the north side of Mt. Baker currently make for excellent climbing and skiing. The route up the Coleman/Deming glacier is very direct and does not contain any major obstacles. An obvious bootpack leads directly uphill from the Hogsback Campsites and travels towards the bergschrund at 8500ft, which is crossed via a large snowbridge in the center right of the crevasse. Be sure to give a wide berth to the hanging glacier on Colfax Peak, as there is a large debris field that intersects a previous route. Pumice Ridge is still snow covered and there are no signs of open crevasses on the Roman Wall. Grant Peak is also snow covered and the summit register has not yet melted out. When descending, be cautious of hazards that might not be visible, especially from uphill. Mt. Baker is experiencing an uncharacteristically deep snowpack for this time of year and there are currently many moats, maulins, cliffs, and bridges that are not usually a problem in July. Specifically, there is a dangerous moat at approximately 5200ft to the skier’s left of Hogsback Ridge. It is directly on the glissade path and users are advised to give this hazard a wide birth. There are currently 5-8 dry tent sites at the Hogsback Ridge area and running water is available at some of these sites. There are also a few dry sites on Gargoyle Rock with running water. The pit-toilet at Harrison Camp is currently snowfree and available for use, but no other backcountry toilets have been installed as of yet. Users are reminded to pack out all waste using Blue Bags or Wag Bags, which are available at both the Glacier and Sedro-Woolley Service Centers. Remember to always stay on designated trails and to minimize your impact using Leave No Trace principals. As always, be safe and happy climbing!

Pumice Ridge and the Roman Wall.

Coleman-Deming - June 20, 2011

The Coleman-Deming route still remains in excellent condition and currently makes for a great ski. The route above the Hogsback crosses no exposed crevasses at this time and maintains a direct line towards the Black Buttes and then further on to the saddle. Climbers should be cautious and camp a safe distance out from under the Black Buttes as signs of rockfall are evident.

Furthermore, a significant amount of ice fall from Colfax peak has fallen over the route. Climbers should be certain to travel at a safe distance away from this unstable hanging glacier as it will continue to cleave off throughout the season.

Rangers are encouraging climbers to continue to get early alpine starts the morning of their climb and also recommending to skiers that they begin their descents sometime around noon, dependent on current daily temperatures.

Climbing Rangers are also suggesting that skiers use caution while skiing down Pumice Ridge below the Roman Wall. Pumice Ridge is often the first section to melt out on the upper mountain and because of the rocky nature of this ridge, skiers risk catching an edge on recently uncovered pumice rock, which could be catastrophic considering the exposure and runout to either side of this corridor. Additionally, all overnight users are asked to please pack out their human waste via Blue Bags or Wag Bags. Thanks again and happy climbing!

The bootpack is currently crossing a heavily crevassed
area on the right that it will not be able to continue
to do in the near future. The new route will need to be moved
further out to the lookers left in the sunlighted area of the
glacier in order to bypass this broken section of the Coleman.

Heliotrope Trailhead to Harrison & Hogsback Camps to Coleman-Deming Route - May 29, 2011

A view of the Roman Wall on the Coleman-Deming Route

Glacier Creek, forest road #39 is snow free to within 1.5 miles of the Heliotrope Ridge trailhead. Skis, snowshoes and or boots are recommended for the hike.

Heliotrope Ridge trail is still covered by 3-6 ft. of snow and is not visible. Be familiar with the trail and its course of travel and do your best to follow the bootpack through the forest to Harrison and Hogsback camps.

The Coleman-Deming is in great condition to ski or climb. The route is very direct and no exposed crevasse crossings exist at this time. Please be aware, however, that crevasses are present beneath you. Avoid areas of major glacial breakup and be sure to continuously evaluate heavily crevassed areas of the glacier, their positioning and relationship with your intended direction of travel. Climbers and skiers should also keep in mind that the terrain above 7,000 ft. has been receiving snow still and snow conditions above this elevation are more indicative of an April snowpack. All parties need to be familiar with and prepared for travel in avalanche terrain. Additionally, all overnight visitors need to plan for snow camping, melting snow for water and the proper amount of fuel to do so. Lastly, a friendly reminder to please pack out all of your waste and to utilize the blue bags and wag bags which can be acquired free of charge from the USFS Sedro-Woolley office or Glacier Public Service Center. Thanks and happy climbing.

Squak Glacier - 2010

2010-08-11T14:57:00.000-07:00

Squak Glacier - August 3, 2010

Great skiing conditions can still be found from the crater down to the upper metcalf moraine! The route from either the Crag View or Metcalf moraine camps begin on suncupped snow, making for unpleasant skiing or skiing in this section.

The route travels quite directly from here up the Squak, currently encountering only one major crevasse hazard. At approximately 8,800 ft., the route navigates around this hazard towards the Easton glacier, to the climbers left on the ascent and to the climbers right on the descent. After passing this obstacle the route maintains a direct heading to the southwestern walls of the crater.

Climbers are advised to be observant and alert for any rockfall from the loose crater rim's rock formations and are also reminded to use good judgement when selecting break sites free of rock or ice fall hazard. Once at the crater, the Squak route joins with the Easton as it ascends the final 1500 ft. up to the summit plateau. Furthermore, a friendly reminder to please pack all your waste off the mountain. Happy Climbing!

Boulder Glacier - 2010

2010-07-26T13:16:00.000-07:00

Boulder Glacier - July 26, 2010

Boulder Ridge Trail is in great condition. Once crossing into the wilderness, the remoteness of this part of the mountain overwhelms. Those who endure trail #605 fully may find themselves rewarded by beatiful views, wildlife and millenia old conifers.

The Boulder Glacier Direct, although in great condition for late July, involves a good amount of route finding. The Boulder Glacier varies from 35 to 50 degrees and sustains that aspect from roughly 6,500 ft. to the summit. The overall pitch of the climb is compounded by the meandering of the route around large and complex crevasses, as well as the exposed travel above them.

The Boulder Direct may not be ascendable in another month and Rangers encourage climbers to consider climbing the Boulder/Park Cleaver in order to bypass the major breakup of the Boulder. Once gaining the upper Boulder/Park Cleaver climbers can re-enter the top of the Boulder Glacier, traverse south contouring towards the north crater peak and then ascend the last 800 ft. up to the summits southern face. As a reminder please pack out all your trash and human waste. Happy climbing and enjoy the route!

North Ridge - 2010

2010-06-09T18:33:00.000-07:00

North Ridge - 08/30/2010

North Ridge - 06/09/10

No reports on the North Ridge just yet, please stay tuned. Furthermore, this photo of the North Ridge is from a past season and not a current representation of the route for the 2010 season. Happy climbing!

Coleman - Deming 2010

2010-05-16T20:59:00.000-07:00

Coleman-Deming - August 30, 2010

It almost felt as though seasons were changing early this weekend as the mountain had received 2-6 inches of new snow over the past few days. Conditions have certainly tempted the climbing rangers to consider digging out the skis for an upcoming weekend sooner than expected. However, dry glacier and exposed patches of firn are not far beneath the surface and can become a serious hazard on skis when in exposed terrain. The route up the Coleman-Deming ascends the first pitch from the Hogsback without much winding around crevasses and reaches the Black Buttes camps after crossing a few cracks in the compression zone also known as the "Football Field." The route keeps to the right of the major Coleman breakup and traverses alongside the Black Buttes to the north as it departs from the Black Buttes camps. Along this section of the route, the boot pack weaves through some large crevasses without much exposure until the bergschrund at approximately 8,800 ft.

The route currently crosses the schrund towards the climber's left in an area only requiring a small step over the airy crack. Protected or belayed crossings are encouraged for smaller rope teams, as all parties are advised to evaluate this section of the climb while proceeding up or down.

A view of the bergschrund crossing and the crack as it grows larger to the climber's right.

A view of the schrund to the climber's left of the route crossing. Climbers will need to traverse further out in this direction in the future to find a way around this obstacle.

Another crevasse just before gaining Pumice Ridge that deserves some attention before crossing.

Pumice Ridge, although now dusted with a few inches of snow, is mostly exposed pumice and scoria. Parties should be conscientious of rock fall generated in this area by other climbers, as well as themselves. Heads up and please and remember to yell ROCK if something is dislodged or cartwheeling down the ridge. The Roman Wall is not currently showing any cracks as of yet, but beware, as many do exist. Lastly, all overnight visitors are asked to use Blue Bags, Wag Bags or another removal system for all human waste. "Pack it in, pack it out" practices please. Happy holidays and climbing to all.

Coleman-Deming - August 14, 2010

The route remains direct from Hogsback to Black Buttes camp. Crevasses are continuing to open up on the first slope up from Hogsback. Climbers should use caution through this area, as this section is crossed first, usually in the dark. As the crevasses continue to open, the route may require you to traverse around these hazards far to the climbers right. The photo on the right is a view of the first pitch of the route after leaving from the Hogsback on the Coleman-Deming.

A medium sized crevasse has opened next to the Black Buttes that climbers should be aware of. Currently climbers are able to step across it. Above the Black Buttes, the climbers route is very well defined, by a 1 foot deep snow trail. The route crosses a snow bridge at 8,500 ft. that should be closely evaluated by climbers. As the snow bridge weakens, the route will need to traverse around the crevasse to the right. Directly above, the snow bridge across the bergschrund remains solid. However, this hazard should always be very closely inspected by climbing parties. Above the saddle most of Pumice Ridge is still passable on snow, but will soon be primarily rock with the warmer weather. The Roman Wall remains very direct. Climbers need to use caution and be aware when crossing over the rock band at the top of Roman Wall. Also, a moat is exposed in some areas. Early travel is recommended to avoid additional hazards on the descent. A reminder to use blue bags and pack out all of your human waste.

Coleman-Deming - August 10, 2010

The Coleman-Deming is still going strong for it being the first week of August. Wet glacier still blankets the route with the beginnings of dry glacier and blue ice showing through in some spots. Crevasses are exposing themselves more regularly now and climbers should not assume that the first pitch above the Hogsback, flats of the football fields or the Black Buttes camping areas are crevasse free safe zones. The bootpack follows its standard course to the saddle and then up to the summit via Pumice Ridge and the Roman Wall. Groups should remain heads up when approaching a series of crevasses around 8,500 ft., as the route will eventually need to be moved as conditions continue to deteorate in this area. The summit register box has finally melted out and is expecting you. Don't forget to sign in! Last but not least, please pack out all your waste and keep the mountain clean for others. Wags bags and Blue bags can be acquired free of charge from either the Glacier or Sedro-Woolley visitor centers. Happy Climbing!

Coleman-Deming - July 19, 2010

The Coleman-Deming is in great shape for July as are most of the routes on the mountain. Overnight temperatures have been hardening snow surfaces down to 6,000 ft. elevations. However, snow has been softening quite quickly and by 10:00 a.m. post-hole conditions can exist even at 10,000 ft. levels. All climbers are encouraged to get an early morning alpine start for ideal climbing conditions. The bergschrund at 8,800 ft. is well covered at the moment but beginning to sag and show signs of deteoration off to the climbers right. A crevasse just before the saddle at approxiately 9,000 ft. currently appears to be the greatest creavasse hazard on the route and should be carefully evaluated before crossing. Climbers should be aware that due to this springs late snow totals, all route conditions appear to be nearly 3 to 4 weeks behind there usual summer schedules. Thus any major crevasse, snow bridge and route deteoration has yet to occur and may begin to exponentially progress over the next month. Climbers should use caution and be observant while on the glacier. Lastly, please pack out all waste. Happy Climbing to you all!

Coleman-Deming - July 5, 2010

There is great coverage on the route and currently an obvious 10 foot wide bootpack which has been used by ascending and descending climbers. Hogsback camps have exposed running water and roughly 12 snow free tent sites at this time. Climbers spending the night at the Black Buttes should be aware of falling rock, which can occur often this time of year. Thus, Black Butte campers should pitch there tents in an area out and away from the Butte cliffs and out of rock fall hazard. Furethermore, climbers camped higher up on the glacier and along the Coleman-Deming route should realize that what now appears well covered, is most likely riddled with crevasses. The Hogsback, Football Field, Black Buttes, and Saddle remain the safest locations to camp along the Coleman-Deming. Lastly, all overnight users need to be utilizing Blue bags, Wag bags or another pack-it-out method for their human waste. Blue bags and Wag bags can be acquired free of charge from the Glacier or Sedro Woolley visitor centers and also from the Heliotrope or Schriebers Meadows trailhead dispensers. Thanks and Happy Climbing!

Coleman-Deming - June 28, 2010

The Coleman-Deming route is in great shape. The route currently has no major crevasse crossings until the bergschrund at approximately 8,800 ft. The forecasted elevation for which rain falls as snow has been fluctuating around the 9,000 ft. level and will continue to do so for the next week. Climbers should be prepared for wet rain and snow conditions for the coming weekend. Also the climbing rangers would like to remind larger groups to space themselves out on the route from other parties while maintaining a 12 person party max unless you are climbing within the National Recreation Area (NRA). Furthermore all overnight users are asked to use pack out methods for all their human waste and to utilize Blue bags from either the trailhead dispensers or from the Glacier and Sedro Woolley visitor centers. Thanks and happy climbing.

Coleman-Deming - June 20, 2010

Wet slushy snow below 8,500 ft. Climbers should be cautious where rock is beginning to expose itself. Post-holing in these spots and over creeks is becoming more common, A few tent spots at Hogsback camp are snow free. The route is still very direct. Climbers should be cautious of crevasses opening in the coming weeks. Evidence of food and human waste was found at Hogsback camp. Please pack everything out that the party packs in. There is a new Blue bag dispenser at the Heliotrope Ridge Trailhead for the public.

Coleman-Deming - June 13, 2010

Wet, slushy snow below 7,500 ft. Firmer corn snow from 7,500 ft. to 9,000 ft. Climbers reported Roman Wall to be covered in an ice crust layer. Climbers using crampons reported it as great for kicking steps. Skiers should use caution. Currently the route is very direct, as many crevasses have not opened up yet. Climbers should be very cautious and aware that these crevasses will begin to open up as temperatures start to heat up. Climbers should also be cautious and aware of avalanche terrain. Wet slab avalanches are still prone to release due to the snow and weather over the past couple weeks. Climbers should be aware that stashing gear behind rocks is not allowed.

Grouse Creek to Grouse Ridge Ski - May 15, 2010

Glacier Creek Road 39 is clear of snow to within 1/4 mile of the Heliotrope Ridge Trailhead. Continue to skin on Forest Road 39 past the bathrooms at the Heliotrope Trailhead; the skin track in the forest behind the bathrooms is no longer in existence due to a lack of snow.

Evidence of wet snow slide activity in Grouse Creek drainage seen in photo to the right. Skiing conditions have been best in a.m. hours, late morning and early afternoon. However, due to the recent warming temperatures and a possibility of rain, conditions may be rapidly changing.

Backcountry Travelers should use extra caution when traversing out of Grouse Creek and underneath Marmot Ridge. Avalanches in the past have originated from the cirque area near the transition of Marmot Ridge into Heliotrope Ridge.

Moreover, all recreationalists should be aware of the probability of this major spring avalanche cycle and generally increasingly dangerous conditions through the weekend.

Easton Glacier - 2010

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Easton Glacier - September 6, 2010

Climbers early in the weekend reported over one foot of fresh snow deposited in spots on the route. Due to poor weather conditions please refer to the report for the Easton glacier from two weeks prior. The route will be extremely similar to that of two weeks ago because cold weather has prevented any additional melt out on the glacier. Climbers need to be aware of the new snow that has fallen and remained on higher parts of the route. Climbers may be required to use more route finding skills with snow covering the boot pack and also be cautious of existing hazards that may be lightly covered by fresh snow. Recent precipitation has deposited anywhere from 3 inches to 1 foot of snow on higher portions of the route.

Easton Glacier - August 23, 2010

The climbing rangers are still quite surprised to have found such great snow and route conditions on the Easton Glacier this late in the summer. The route up the Easton remains direct and the majority of the climb is still done on wet glacier. After leaving upper Climber"s Camp, the route travels northeast meandering through a few large compression zones before approaching the 8,500 ft. bench.

As climbers approach this bench they will need to evaluate a network of crevasses as they navigate to the climber's right through this section. Once at the 8,500 ft. bench, climbers will ascend a very direct boot pack towards the crater.

Beginning at 8,800 ft., the route travels over a series of large crevasses, which although solidly bridged, should not be underestimated.

It is vital that climbers take the time to seriously evaluate this section of hazards and those that follow over the next 2,000 ft to the summit.

Rangers were also able to install a new summit register on Grant Peak, so be sure to sign in when you arrive on top.

Furthermore, the mountain has been maintaining its bright white glaciers, as elevations above 9,000 ft. received a trace of new snow over the past weekend.

Lastly, as a reminder, please pack out all waste, including human! Wag bags and Blue bags are free of charge from either the Sedro Woolley or Glacier visitor centers.

Be safe and Happy Climbing.

Looking back towards the 8,500 ft. bench.

The route currently ascends the ramp on the right in the sunlight up to the crater rim.

A view from the crater wall looking down towards the route as it approaches the crater rim from the Easton.

Crevasse crossing on the crater wall nearly 800 ft. from the summit.

Easton Glacier - July 26, 2010

The Easton Glacier Route is in excellent condition for being nearly August. The bootpack currently does not have any dicey crevasse crossings. The route is direct with good coverage and healthy snow bridges. A series of complex crevasses which usually are situated around 8,800 ft. are just beginning to become exposed. However, the final 1,000 ft. of the Deming glacier leading to the summit plateau is an area of interest and concern.

As climbers top out from the Easton on to this upper portion of the Deming they should pay close attention to these final few crevasses. This area has been undergoing dramatic changes over the past few years . Furthermore, overnight users can acquire Blue bags and Wag bags free of charge at either the Glacier or Sedro Woolley visitor centers. Please pack out all waste! Thanks and happy climbing.

Easton Glacier - July 12, 2010

Warm temperatures in the beginning of the weekend made the majority of the route soft, sloppy snow. Cold weather moved in on Monday and refroze the route making crampons advisable. Please use climbers bootpack only when ascending the mountain. When descending in soft snow, heel/plunge step to the side of the climbing route to preserve the staircase of steps for other ascending climbers. Route remains very direct and snow bridges are not showing signs of major deterioration yet. However, please be aware that smaller crevasses are beginning to be more visible. When camping on the glacier, check the prospective area thoroughly for crevasses. Do not assume that because there is evidence of an old camp that it is necessarily in a good spot. Winds were extremely high above 9,000 ft. today with many steps on route being covered by new or wind blown snow. Multiple human waste deposits were removed from the various camps. Please remember your Blue bags or Wag bags. Climbers are responsible for bringing out their own waste. Keep the mountain pristine for everyone.

Easton Glacier - June 19, 2010

Wet, sloppy snow with post holing possible. Route is currently very direct along rock ridge out of climbers camps. Climbers should use caution as rock becomes more exposed, moats form and the possibility of punching through into one of these hazards increases. Railroad grade is currently covered in snow. Climbers should ascend on lower and safer terrain to the west of the railroad grade to avoid the possibility of snow or rock falling into Rocky Creek moraine. The Easton route is very direct, only large crevasses are exposed. Firn level starts at about 8,500 ft. . Climbers need to use caution as many more crevasses will start to expose themselves in the upcoming weeks. Evidence of fires has been found in Morovtis Meadows and Rocky Creek area. Be aware fires are not allowed anywhere on Mt. Baker proper.

Easton Glacier via Rocky Creek from Schreiber's Meadow - May 14, 2010

Easton Glacier, looking north from upper Rocky Creek.

Snow on Forest Road 13 prevents most from driving the final 1.5 miles to the Schreiber's Meadow trailhead. There remains 36+ inches of snow in areas at the trailhead and good coverage through the forest meadow to Rocky Creek. However, due to the recent warm spell and rain in the forecast, the snow pack maybe melting rapidly. Sandy Camp and the Easton Glacier route may be reached on snow and quite direct via Rocky Creek. Due to the difficulty in navigating the snow covered switchbacks in which the actual trail follows during the summer, many choose to ascend the Rocky Creek drainage.

That being said, once Rocky Creek becomes snow free, climbers are asked to take the trail across Rocky Creek and remain on it through the switchbacks to Morivitz Meadows and then on to the Railroad Grade in order to access the Easton Glacier. Note the volume of debris which has accumulated from the relatively small propagation on a southeast aspect of Railroad Grade's lower moraine wall in the photo above.

All backcountry travelers should use caution while in route to the Easton Glacier and climber camps due to recent activity of natural and triggered wet snow slides within the moraine walls of Rocky Creek.

Another small wet snow slide this time on a southwest aspect.

Coleman Headwall - 2010

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Coleman Headwall - 08/30/2010

Coleman Headwall - 06/14/2010

No reports on the Coleman Headwall just yet. However, the route looks quite direct as seen from this photo taken on 6/13/10. Note the slide debris at the bottom of both the left and right snow ramps. Happy climbing!