Easton Glacier - 2014

Easton Glacier - September 7, 2014 

Park Butte Trail and Railroad Grade Trail are clear of snow and in good condition to Sandy Camp. Blueberries and wildflowers are out. Sandy Camp is completely snowfree at this time with about 30 dry tent sites available. 10-15 dry tent sites are also available higher on the ridge at Climber's Camp. Running water can currently be found at all campsites. 

The route up the Easton Glacier is still seeing a high number of successful ascents. Climbers are finding significant crevasse problems at about 7300' above Climber's Camp, 8500' to 9500' below the Sherman Crater, and around 10,200' on the final wall. The most complex crossing is below the Sherman Crater where many parties have been seen traversing to the right--towards the Squak Glacier--in order to get through. Some climbers have also been passing this hazard by working briefly to the left onto the Deming Glacier. Be aware of rockfall coming off Sherman Peak and do not stop to rest where a rockfall hazard exists. All parties must make their own assessments of snow bridges, crevasse crossings, and route conditions. Remember to get an early alpine start in order to avoid soft, unstable conditions during the middle of the day when temperatures are highest. The summit register on Grant Peak is melted out and awaiting your entries! 

Please remember to pack out all garbage, including wands, marking tape, food scraps, wrappers, and human waste. Blue bags are available free of charge at the USFS Public Service Center in Sedro Woolley. Stop by to pick some up and register for your climb. Good luck and happy climbing!   

Easton Glacier - July 14, 2014

Sandy Camp is partially snow covered at this time with about 10-15 dry tent sites available. 4-6 dry tent sites exist higher on the ridge at Climbers Camp. Running water is readily available at all camps.
The route up the Easton Glacier is currently very direct. Significant crevasse crossings exist above 8500 ft, but most parties have had no difficulty climbing past these hazards. Be aware that the recent warm weather will change the glacier drastically and all parties should make careful assessments of snow bridges. The Climbing Rangers have also received multiple reports of very deep, soft snow conditions on the route. Remember to get an early alpine start on your summit day. The summit register on Grant Peak is melted out and awaiting your entries!
Please remember, if you pack it in, to pack it out. This includes flagging, wands, food scraps, trash and human waste. The USFS Public Service Center in Sedro Woolley, WA offers Blue Bags free of charge to climbers. Stop by to register for your climb and pick some up for your trip. Thank you and happy climbing!
Easton Glacier - July 12, 2014 
The Climbing Rangers have recently received multiple reports that the Easton Glacier has sections of deep isothermic snow forming on the route to the summit. The hot and sunny weather is causing the snowpack to melt rapidly and some climbing parties have been sinking in as deep as their waist. It is very important that all parties get early alpine starts when making their summit attempts in order to avoid the worst heat in the middle of the day. Consider adjusting your climbing and approach schedule in order to prevent exposure to the high temperatures for prolonged periods. Also, the glaciers are changing quickly this time of year, so be aware of crevasses opening up and seracs collapsing. Do not assume that the bootpack is the best or only route. Always make your own assessment of the crevasse hazards. More detailed route and camp information coming soon. Be safe and happy climbing!