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| Easton Glacier at sunrise. |
Trail Status: Park Butte Trail was clear of snow and in good condition to the junction with Railroad Grade Trail. Railroad Grade Trail was snow free to Sandy Camp.
Snow Level: 6000 feet Snow Observations: We found corn snow at most elevations and aspects. Patches of dry glacier were beginning to melt out below 7500 feet. The snowpack firmed up overnight and softened by 11am. There were large runnels and suncups below 10,000 feet.
Route Observations and Additional Information: The route up the Easton Glacier was more challenging and complex this week than it has been all summer, although the lower sections were still relatively straightforward. We departed from Sandy Camp and traveled up the usual route, encountering several crevasses that we crossed on solid snow bridges between 7000 feet and 8500 feet. At approximately 8700 feet, we began an ascending traverse easterly into an area of major breakup. One option here was to cut back at approximately 9200 feet toward the corridor beneath Sherman Crater. This required crossing a thin snow bridge over a large crevasse. Another option was to continue the ascending traverse, winding around numerous crevasses until almost beneath Sherman Peak. From there, it was possible to traverse back westerly beneath loose rock to Sherman Crater. Of these two options, the latter appeared to be the safest and most efficient, though it still required complex glacier navigation. The snow bridges in this section also appeared to be wide enough and thick enough to last for a while.
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| Crevasses on a lower section of the route. |
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| Sherman Crater. |
Lower Sandy Camp was mostly snow free and there was running water available throughout the area. Mice and ravens were very active and all visitors should store their food in animal-proof containers. As always, pack out all garbage and human waste using blue bags or another system. Blue bags are available for free from the USFS Service Centers in Sedro Woolley and Glacier. Thanks and happy climbing!
Easton Glacier - July 29, 2017
Road Access: Forest Road #12 and #13 were clear of snow to Schrieber’s Meadow Trailhead. There were some large potholes on the road, so please drive slowly.
Trail Status: Park Butte Trail was clear of snow and in good condition to the junction with Railroad Grade Trail. Railroad Grade Trail was snow free to Sandy Camp.
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| Sandy Camp and the Easton Glacier |
Route Observations and Additional Information: The Easton Glacier was in typical mid-season form this weekend. From Sandy Camp and Climbers Camp, the bootpack was easy to follow and relatively direct for this time of year. We encountered several minor crevasses between 7000 feet and 8500 feet. We crossed these on solid snow bridges. At approximately 8700 feet, the bootpack traversed easterly and led to a major crevasse at approximately 9000 feet. We crossed this crevasse on a narrow snow bridge. This was the most hazardous section of the route and all climbers should assess this snow bridge carefully and consider using running protection before crossing. The snow bridge will likely melt in coming weeks and an alternate route will have to be found. After this bridge, the bootpack cut back to the west and crossed another large crevasse at approximately 9200 feet to gain the section called the corridor. From there, we traveled directly up the corridor, zig zagged over a few minor crevasses, and came to Sherman Crater. There were several crevasses on the final summit wall, the largest of which we crossed in the center where the crack was pinched together. This is another area that will melt in coming weeks and the route will have to change accordingly. Grant Peak was melted out and the summit register was available for entries.
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| Large crevasse and narrow snow bridge at approximately 9000 feet. |
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| Traversing back to the west to gain the corridor at approximately 9200 feet. |
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| Descending over a large crevasse on the final summit wall. |
Easton Glacier - July 10, 2017
Road Access: Forest Roads #12 and #13 are clear of snow at this time. Please drive cautiously as many potholes and washboards exist. Schriebers Meadow parking lot including the Park Butte and Scott Paul Trailheads are also snow free at this time.
Trail Status: Park Butte Trail is snow free up to Morovitz Meadow. Scott Paul Trail is snow free for most of the forested section until reaching the meadow below Crag View where it becomes covered by snow.
Snow Level: 4500 feet
Snow Observations: Corn Snow with suncups reaching up to 8500 feet
Route Observations and Additional Information: Railroad Camps and High Camps are mostly free of snow. Railroad Grade which leads to Sandy and Climbers Camps and the Easton Glacier is also snow free. Sandy Camp offers nearly a dozen dry campsites currently. Running water can also be found nearby all the camps. The Easton Glacier Route has seen many successful acsents. Suncups have formed on most of the slopes up to 8500 feet on route. The major crevasses have begun to show themselves between 8000 feet and 10,000 feet. All climbers should rope up for the climb. Climbers were observed using two routes to ascend the final summit wall. Most have been choosing a steeper track to the climbers right that skirts by a shallow crevasse, however, this route is more exposed to rockfall versus the climbers left route. Ascending to the climbers left the slopes are more open and the crevasses are still well bridged. The route to the left also provides for a better ski. The summit register on Grant Peak has melted out and awaits your entries.
Easton Glacier - June 12, 2017
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| Schriebers Meadow trailhead should be clear of snow soon. |
Trail Status: Park Butte Trail and Scott Paul Trail are snow covered from the trailhead to all camps and climbing routes. Use caution when crossing snow bridges over creeks and rivers. Snow bridges can melt out from below and be much thinner than they appear.
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| Park Butte Trail is still covered in snow. |
Snow Observations: Soft corn snow on most aspects and elevations. Small accumulation of new snow above 9000 feet.
Route Observations and Additional Information: Climbers and skiers have found excellent early season conditions on the Easton Glacier in recent weeks. The winter snowpack is still covering many of the major crevasses, but it is melting quickly. The route often changes this time of year as crevasses and other hazards are revealed. Always rope up when traveling on the glacier. There are several crevasses beginning to open at the edge of the glacier, on the east side of the rocky ridge at Sandy Camp. There are also open crevasses between 8900 feet and 9600 feet directly below Sherman Crater. Parties are currently crossing these crevasses on large and obvious snow bridges. Later in the season, these areas of the glacier can become very broken and complex. No crevasses are yet visible on the final summit wall. The summit register on Grant Peak is still buried in snow.
There are no dry campsites at Sandy Camp or Climbers Camp, so make sure to bring the proper equipment to camp on the snow, such as snow anchors for your tent and a closed-cell foam sleeping pad. There is also no running water available in these areas yet, so make sure to bring extra fuel to melt snow. As always, pack out all food scraps, garbage, and human waste. Blue bags are available for free from the USFS Service Centers in Sedro Woolley and Glacier. Please help us keep the mountain clean for future visitors. Thanks and happy climbing!
