Coleman-Deming Glacier - 2019

Coleman-Deming Glacier - June 17, 2019

MAJOR OBJECTIVE HAZARDS: Hanging ice and loose rock on Coleman-Deming route.
Road Access: Glacier Creek Road was open and clear to Heliotrope Ridge trailhead.

Trail Status: Heliotrope Ridge Trail was in good shape and was snow free to Harrison and Hogsback camps, and the glacier overlook.

Snow Level: Approximately 5500ft    
Snow Observations: Soft corn snow at most elevations with some dry glacier beginning to appear on parts of the route. Suncups developing below 7500 feet.

Route Observations and Additional Information:

IMPORTANT NOTICE: MAJOR OBJECTIVE HAZARDS ON COLEMAN-DEMING ROUTE. On Thursday, June 13, a snow bridge spanning a large crevasse at approximately 8800 feet on the Coleman-Deming route collapsed. This bridge had been the main route across the crevasse. As an alternative, some climbing parties chose to end run the crevasse to the climber’s left. However, this route travels close to hanging ice and loose rock in the area known as the Roman Mustache. These are major objective hazards that should not be underestimated. They have the potential to collapse without warning, possibly causing serious injury or death.

The 8800-foot crevasse has been a common problem in recent years. Last August, this same area became essentially impassible to most climbers except those with a high level of technical skill. This year, the same issues are happening earlier. Although climbing parties were able to complete summit climbs via the end run, exposure to such large overhead hazards should not be taken lightly.

Do not camp or take breaks anywhere near this hazard.
Additionally, the hanging glacier on Colfax Peak has significant cracks developing near its edges, which indicates a large collapse could happen in the future. Last year, in late July, a very large collapse here caused an ice avalanche that completely covered the main climbing route with debris. A similar event is possible and even likely this year. 

This brings up an important reminder to all climbers on any route: get an early alpine start to your summit bid and make sure to return to camp before midday.

However, no amount of skill, speed, or planning can completely eliminate the objective hazards that are present on the current Coleman-Deming route. Just because other parties made it through there does not mean it is safe! Don’t let summit fever cloud your judgement. The climbing rangers encourage parties to consider other routes on Mount Baker, such as the Easton Glacier.  

Alternatively, ice climbing on the Coleman seracs or practicing rescue skills on the lower glacier are great ways to enjoy the Heliotrope Ridge area. Hogsback Camp has 20-30 dry tent pads and running water is readily available.


Remember to pack out all garbage and human waste! Rangers removed large amounts of waste from the Football Field and Black Buttes area. Waste buried in the snow will melt out and contaminate water sources. Blue bags are available for free from the USFS visitor center in Glacier or from trailhead dispensers. Thanks for helping us keep Mount Baker clean! Happy climbing!




Coleman-Deming Galcier -June 1, 2019
Coleman-Deming Camp and Route Conditions

Road Access: Glacier Creek Road was open and clear to Heliotrope Ridge trailhead. 

Trail Status: Heliotrope Ridge Trail was in good shape and was mostly snow free to Harrison and Hogsback camps, and the glacier overlook. The few patches of snow that do remain will melt quickly.

Snow Level:Approximately 5500ft ​
Snow Observations:Soft corn snow at most elevations with some dry glacier beginning to appear on parts of the route. Skiers who descended at 11am reported icy conditions on the Roman Wall, with nice corn on lower pitches. 

Route Observations and Additional Information: The Coleman-Deming Route saw a lot of traffic from climbers, skiers, and snowboarders this weekend. The route was generally well covered and direct, although a few significant crevasses are beginning to appear and the route will likely change soon. Some parties were observed traveling over a thin snow bridge at approximately 7500 feet. Early in the season, while the glacier is still covered with the winter snowpack, it should not be necessary to travel over precarious bridges. There was a much safer route through this area a short distance to the climber’s right. Take your time to find the safest route. 

Crossing thin snow bridges early in the season is not necessary. Find a safer route!
Pumice Ridge was still snow covered and the bootpack up the Roman Wall was in good shape. Skiers and snowboarders should remember not to side slip on top of the bootpack when descending the Roman Wall or other parts of the route. This can endanger those ascending and demolish the bootpack. Ski to the sides and stay in control. 

There were around a dozen dry tent pads at Hogsback Camp and more will be melting out very soon. Running water was available nearby. Please remember to pack out all garbage and human waste using blue bags or another system. Happy climbing!

 Coleman-Deming Glacier - May 20, 2019


Hogsback Camp conditions. May 18, 2019


Road Access: Glacier Creek Road is open and clear to Heliotrope Ridge Trailhead.

Trail Status: Heliotrope Ridge Trail is mostly snow free to Kulshan Creek and mostly snow covered thereafter. One downed tree is still across the trail and has to be climbed over. Trail is otherwise in great condition.

Snow Level: Approximately 5000ft

Snow Observations: Soft corn snow at lower elevations with icy sections higher up.

Route Observations and Additional Information: The Coleman-Deming route saw a lot of traffic from climbers and skiers this weekend. The glacier was generally well covered and there were several inches of fresh snow on top of a harder surface. Guides reported a crevasse intersecting the bootpack at approximately 8500 feet, below Coleman Saddle. Two ice avalanches also occurred in this area on the same day, from Colfax Peak and the Roman Mustache. This is one of the most hazardous sections of the route every year, so remember to move through there efficiently. Pumice Ridge is still covered with snow. Skiers reported icy conditions on the Roman Wall. All teams experienced high winds and cold temperatures.


There were a few dry sites at Hogsback Camp and running water was available nearby, but the area is still mostly snow covered. 


As always, pack out all garbage and human waste using blue bags or another system. Help us protect our water sources and keep the mountain clean for future visitors. Thanks and happy climbing!
Coleman-Deming Glacier - May 17, 2019

Looking up Heliotrope Ridge Trail toward Hogsback Camp. Dangerous moat marked with red arrow. Bootpack/trail visible on left side of photo. 

Close up of the moat.
The climbing rangers would like to remind all climbers, skiers, and hikers about a common hazard on Heliotrope Ridge Trail, the approach to the Coleman-Deming, North Ridge, and Coleman Headwall routes. This time of year, the melting snowpack creates a dangerous moat in the Kulshan Creek drainage to the west of Hogsback Ridge at about 5400 feet. Later in the summer when the snowpack is gone, it is a large waterfall, but this time of year it can look like a small crack where the snow is peeling back from the rock. This moat was the site of a fatality several years ago.

People tend to ski and glissade directly down the drainage, but the moat cannot be seen from above until you're right on top of it. The moat can be as deep as 40 feet. We encourage all visitors to avoid the drainage and stick to the ridge until well away from this hazard. And don't hesitate to inform other visitors about the moat. Be safe and enjoy your time on Mount Baker!