Easton Glacier - September 6, 2010
Climbers early in the weekend reported over one foot of fresh snow deposited in spots on the route. Due to poor weather conditions please refer to the report for the Easton glacier from two weeks prior. The route will be extremely similar to that of two weeks ago because cold weather has prevented any additional melt out on the glacier. Climbers need to be aware of the new snow that has fallen and remained on higher parts of the route. Climbers may be required to use more route finding skills with snow covering the boot pack and also be cautious of existing hazards that may be lightly covered by fresh snow. Recent precipitation has deposited anywhere from 3 inches to 1 foot of snow on higher portions of the route.
Easton Glacier - August 23, 2010
Beginning at 8,800 ft., the route travels over a series of large crevasses, which although solidly bridged, should not be underestimated.
Warm temperatures in the beginning of the weekend made the majority of the route soft, sloppy snow. Cold weather moved in on Monday and refroze the route making crampons advisable. Please use climbers bootpack only when ascending the mountain. When descending in soft snow, heel/plunge step to the side of the climbing route to preserve the staircase of steps for other ascending climbers. Route remains very direct and snow bridges are not showing signs of major deterioration yet. However, please be aware that smaller crevasses are beginning to be more visible. When camping on the glacier, check the prospective area thoroughly for crevasses. Do not assume that because there is evidence of an old camp that it is necessarily in a good spot. Winds were extremely high above 9,000 ft. today with many steps on route being covered by new or wind blown snow. Multiple human waste deposits were removed from the various camps. Please remember your Blue bags or Wag bags. Climbers are responsible for bringing out their own waste. Keep the mountain pristine for everyone.
Easton Glacier - June 19, 2010
Wet, sloppy snow with post holing possible. Route is currently very direct along rock ridge out of climbers camps. Climbers should use caution as rock becomes more exposed, moats form and the possibility of punching through into one of these hazards increases. Railroad grade is currently covered in snow. Climbers should ascend on lower and safer terrain to the west of the railroad grade to avoid the possibility of snow or rock falling into Rocky Creek moraine. The Easton route is very direct, only large crevasses are exposed. Firn level starts at about 8,500 ft. . Climbers need to use caution as many more crevasses will start to expose themselves in the upcoming weeks. Evidence of fires has been found in Morovtis Meadows and Rocky Creek area. Be aware fires are not allowed anywhere on Mt. Baker proper.
Easton Glacier via Rocky Creek from Schreiber's Meadow - May 14, 2010
Climbers early in the weekend reported over one foot of fresh snow deposited in spots on the route. Due to poor weather conditions please refer to the report for the Easton glacier from two weeks prior. The route will be extremely similar to that of two weeks ago because cold weather has prevented any additional melt out on the glacier. Climbers need to be aware of the new snow that has fallen and remained on higher parts of the route. Climbers may be required to use more route finding skills with snow covering the boot pack and also be cautious of existing hazards that may be lightly covered by fresh snow. Recent precipitation has deposited anywhere from 3 inches to 1 foot of snow on higher portions of the route.
Easton Glacier - August 23, 2010
The climbing rangers are still quite surprised to have found such great snow and route conditions on the Easton Glacier this late in the summer. The route up the Easton remains direct and the majority of the climb is still done on wet glacier. After leaving upper Climber"s Camp, the route travels northeast meandering through a few large compression zones before approaching the 8,500 ft. bench.
As climbers approach this bench they will need to evaluate a network of crevasses as they navigate to the climber's right through this section. Once at the 8,500 ft. bench, climbers will ascend a very direct boot pack towards the crater.
Beginning at 8,800 ft., the route travels over a series of large crevasses, which although solidly bridged, should not be underestimated.
It is vital that climbers take the time to seriously evaluate this section of hazards and those that follow over the next 2,000 ft to the summit.
Rangers were also able to install a new summit register on Grant Peak, so be sure to sign in when you arrive on top.
Furthermore, the mountain has been maintaining its bright white glaciers, as elevations above 9,000 ft. received a trace of new snow over the past weekend.
Lastly, as a reminder, please pack out all waste, including human! Wag bags and Blue bags are free of charge from either the Sedro Woolley or Glacier visitor centers.
Be safe and Happy Climbing.
Looking back towards the 8,500 ft. bench.
The route currently ascends the ramp on the right in the sunlight up to the crater rim.
A view from the crater wall looking down towards the route as it approaches the crater rim from the Easton.
Crevasse crossing on the crater wall nearly 800 ft. from the summit.
Easton Glacier - July 26, 2010
The Easton Glacier Route is in excellent condition for being nearly August. The bootpack currently does not have any dicey crevasse crossings. The route is direct with good coverage and healthy snow bridges. A series of complex crevasses which usually are situated around 8,800 ft. are just beginning to become exposed. However, the final 1,000 ft. of the Deming glacier leading to the summit plateau is an area of interest and concern.
As climbers top out from the Easton on to this upper portion of the Deming they should pay close attention to these final few crevasses. This area has been undergoing dramatic changes over the past few years . Furthermore, overnight users can acquire Blue bags and Wag bags free of charge at either the Glacier or Sedro Woolley visitor centers. Please pack out all waste! Thanks and happy climbing.
Easton Glacier - July 12, 2010
Easton Glacier - June 19, 2010
Wet, sloppy snow with post holing possible. Route is currently very direct along rock ridge out of climbers camps. Climbers should use caution as rock becomes more exposed, moats form and the possibility of punching through into one of these hazards increases. Railroad grade is currently covered in snow. Climbers should ascend on lower and safer terrain to the west of the railroad grade to avoid the possibility of snow or rock falling into Rocky Creek moraine. The Easton route is very direct, only large crevasses are exposed. Firn level starts at about 8,500 ft. . Climbers need to use caution as many more crevasses will start to expose themselves in the upcoming weeks. Evidence of fires has been found in Morovtis Meadows and Rocky Creek area. Be aware fires are not allowed anywhere on Mt. Baker proper.
Easton Glacier via Rocky Creek from Schreiber's Meadow - May 14, 2010
Easton Glacier, looking north from upper Rocky Creek.
Snow on Forest Road 13 prevents most from driving the final 1.5 miles to the Schreiber's Meadow trailhead. There remains 36+ inches of snow in areas at the trailhead and good coverage through the forest meadow to Rocky Creek. However, due to the recent warm spell and rain in the forecast, the snow pack maybe melting rapidly. Sandy Camp and the Easton Glacier route may be reached on snow and quite direct via Rocky Creek. Due to the difficulty in navigating the snow covered switchbacks in which the actual trail follows during the summer, many choose to ascend the Rocky Creek drainage.
That being said, once Rocky Creek becomes snow free, climbers are asked to take the trail across Rocky Creek and remain on it through the switchbacks to Morivitz Meadows and then on to the Railroad Grade in order to access the Easton Glacier. Note the volume of debris which has accumulated from the relatively small propagation on a southeast aspect of Railroad Grade's lower moraine wall in the photo above.
All backcountry travelers should use caution while in route to the Easton Glacier and climber camps due to recent activity of natural and triggered wet snow slides within the moraine walls of Rocky Creek.
All backcountry travelers should use caution while in route to the Easton Glacier and climber camps due to recent activity of natural and triggered wet snow slides within the moraine walls of Rocky Creek.