Easton Glacier - September 11, 2011
Easton Glacier - September 5, 2011
The Easton Glacier route is in excellent shape for mountaineering. Large runnels and suncups exist on snowfields below 9,000 ft. Coverage is still generally good on the entire route and no new snow has been received in the last two weeks.
From Sandy Camp, the route follows the right edge of the ridge before gaining the glacier above Climber's Camp at about 7,200 ft. Between Climber's Camp and the crater rim there are currently significant crevasse crossings at about 8,300 ft, 8,600 ft, and 9,000 ft, including one large step-over. The final crater wall also contains one large crevasse that is passed by following the leftward traversing bootpack. The summit register on Grant Peak is now visible and available for entries. Climbers are encouraged to get early alpine starts as the snow is becoming soft and slushy by mid-morning. Toilets are available for use at Railroad Grade, High, Sandy and Climber's Camps. Remember to take Blue Bags or Wag Bags for use on route and always pack out all garbage. Enjoy the rest of the season!
Easton Glacier - August 22, 2011
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| A View of the Deming, Easton and Squak Glacier Routes |
Easton Glacier - September 5, 2011
The Easton Glacier route is in excellent shape for mountaineering. Large runnels and suncups exist on snowfields below 9,000 ft. Coverage is still generally good on the entire route and no new snow has been received in the last two weeks.
From Sandy Camp, the route follows the right edge of the ridge before gaining the glacier above Climber's Camp at about 7,200 ft. Between Climber's Camp and the crater rim there are currently significant crevasse crossings at about 8,300 ft, 8,600 ft, and 9,000 ft, including one large step-over. The final crater wall also contains one large crevasse that is passed by following the leftward traversing bootpack. The summit register on Grant Peak is now visible and available for entries. Climbers are encouraged to get early alpine starts as the snow is becoming soft and slushy by mid-morning. Toilets are available for use at Railroad Grade, High, Sandy and Climber's Camps. Remember to take Blue Bags or Wag Bags for use on route and always pack out all garbage. Enjoy the rest of the season!
Easton Glacier - August 22, 2011
The route itself crosses no open or airy crevasses at this time. However, the bridged crevasses at 8,500 ft, 9,000 ft, at the Crater Rim, and along the upper Deming Glacier are continuing to deteriorate and are most safely negotiated in the early hours of the day when conditions are firm. Climbing parties should consider protecting these hazards and, as always, thoroughly evaluate the condition of the existing bridges prior to crossing. Climbers should also pay close attention to the corridor leading up to the Crater Rim, as this section of the route usually requires a change of course by this point in the season.
As sunny weather and warmer temperatures persist through the end of our summer, previously established tent sites and alpine vegetation have finally begun to melt out and show themselves. Thus far, due to a shortage in exposed dry tent sites, the Climbing Rangers have noticed an unacceptable increase in the construction of new tent sites and rock walls. Construction of new tent pads, rock walls, cooking screens, irrigation trenches or any other alteration or modification to the natural landscape is prohibited. All overnight users should be prepared to camp on snow should there be a lack of dry sites available at the time of their arrival. Therefore, parties need to be equipped with a ground cloth or footprint and some form of a snow anchor in order to secure their shelters. Using rocks to tie off and secure tents is acceptable, as long as the rocks are not taken from dry ground where they play an important role in providing and maintaining soil stability for present and pioneering flora. Lastly, please practice 'Pack It In, Pack It Out' techniques and remember to sweep your camps for any garbage or food scraps before heading off the mountain. As always, be safe and happy climbing
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| A view from Sandy Camp looking north up the ridge towards Climbers Camp and the Easton Glacier Route. |
Easton Glacier - August 8, 2011
Climbers should find excellent conditions on the Easton Glacier for the month of August. Snow conditions are holding strong as are the snow bridges along the route. Areas of most concern still remain around 8,500 ft. and 8,800 ft. as these crevasses and their bridges are slowly showing signs of deterioration. All parties should continue to monitor and assess these crossings. 
Furthermore, the corridor below the crater rim at approximately 9,500 ft. and a couple spots on the upper Deming Glacier around 10,200 ft. have also begun to show their cracks. Climbers should monitor these sections for additional deterioration as well.
Mountain toilets are available for use at Railroad, High, Sandy and Climbers Camps for human waste only. Please continue to pack out all your garbage as the toilets are not trash receptacles. Thanks and happy climbing!
Easton Glacier - July 25, 2011
The Easton Glacier is in great condition for late July and should carry us safely well into August. The camps above 6,000 ft. are still under snow and no running water exists at this time. Mountain toilets have been installed at various locations on the south side of Mt. Baker including High Camp, Sandy Camp and Climbers Camp. Please do not put any trash into these toilets. Blue Bags & Wag Bags are still to be used while on route or in areas without toilets.
The Easton route is still very direct to the crater rim and then up to the summit plateau. Climbers & Skiers should use caution and evaluate the crevasse crossings at approximately 8,500 ft, 8,800 ft, and 9,000 ft very thoroughly. The crevasses open very large and are historically the most posing hazards on the route. A last reminder to please pack out all of your waste. Thanks and be safe out there.
Easton Glacier - July 4, 2011
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| Easton Glacier from Sandy Camps |
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| Snow covered Sandy Camps |
The Eastoncarvable corn slopes that are all between 30 to 40 degree angles. Although the snow coverage on the route is still quite favorable, skiers and climbers should thoroughly inspect and evaluate the crevasses at 8,500 ft. and 8,800 ft.
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| Crevasse crossing at 8,500 ft. on Easton Glacier |
The bridges should be closely monitored, as they have begun to show signs of deterioration. These two areas are considered some of the largest hazards on the route and are known to undergo substantial change over the course of the season. All travelers should use great care and pay close attention when negotiating these crossings. Lastly, as a reminder, all overnight and day users are asked to use Wag Bags or Blue Bags to collect and pack out human waste. They can both be acquired free of charge from either the Sedro-Woolley or Glacier Visitor Centers.
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| Looking up at the 8,800 ft crevasse from 8,500 ft bench. |
Easton Glacier - June 12, 2011
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| Looking up Rocky Creek and the Easton Glacier |
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| Sandy Camp looking towards the Twin Sisters Range |
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| Roman Wall (upper left) Crater Wall (upper right) |
The Easton Glacier Route is in excellent early season condition. After leaving Sandy Camp and Climber's Camp, which are still completely snow covered, the route takes a direct line towards the crater rim. Little traversing is needed to negotiate crevasses, but quickly melting in the snowpack will change the hazards. Watch for the cracking or sagging on the route and climb early, while the snow is still hard, to prevent risk. By noon the snow is becoming soft and many hidden crevasses will be unsafe. A good bootpack exists from Sandy Camp to the summit and there are no open crevasses on the roman wall or final 1000 ft. of the Easton. All parties need to be familiar with glacier travel & travel in avalanche terrain. All overnight visitors should also plan to camp on snow and be equipped with enough fuel to melt snow for water. Always remember to pack out all of your waste and use blue bags or wag bags for managing human waste. Happy and safe climbing!
Schrieber's Meadow to Sandy Camp & Easton Glacier - June 5, 2011
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| Approaching the Crater Rim on the Easton Route with a view of the Crater Wall to the upper left. |
Forest Road #12 is clear to road #13. Once on road #13 you can drive to within 2 miles of Schrieber's Meadow before reaching snow. Please use caution and drive slowly , washboards do exist on the roads.
Both the Park Butte and Railroad Grade trails are snow covered. Skis, snowshoes and or boots are recommended for the hike.
Spring snow conditions exist on the mountain. Anticipate slushy, wet corn snow during the day and afternoon with snow surfaces hardening up in the evening , overnight and early morning.
The Easton Glacier route is in excellent early season shape. After leaving Sandy and Climbers camps at approximately 6-7000 ft. the route takes a very direct line of travel towards the crater rim. Currently, little to no traversing is needed to negotiate the major crevasses at 8,000 and 8,800 ft. on the route. These crevasses are well covered and bridged at this time. Climbers and skiers should be most concerned with getting early alpine starts and beginning their descents before noon. All groups are encouraged to be off the glacier by 2:00 pm, in order to minimize the risk and exposure to avalanches and failing snow bridges. Furthermore, all parties need to be familiar with and prepared for travel in avalanche terrain. All overnight visitors should also plan to camp on snow and be equipped with enough fuel to melt snow for drinking water, as there are no dry tent sites nor areas with exposed running water. Lastly, a reminder to please pack out all your waste and to use methods such as Blue Bags or Wag Bags for managing all human waste. Thanks and happy climbing!
