Squak Glacier - July 4, 2011
The Squak Glacier route is currently very direct to the crater rim and makes for an outstanding climb or ski. After leaving from Crag View and the Metcalf Moraine area, the route ascends gradually over some large rolling convexities for nearly 2,000 ft. before encountering its first exposed crevasse crossing. This crevasse, at approximately 8,200 ft, is best passed to the climbers left or skiers right by end running the crack rather than crossing the current airy bridge. From here, good coverage exists up to about 8,600 ft. Beyond that, up to the crater rim, a series of crevasses will require some meandering in order to pass safely. Once reaching the crater rim, climbers from the Squak will then merge onto the Easton Route to complete the climb to the summit plateau and Grant Peak. Sun cups exist below 7,000 ft and within the Crag View and Metcalf Moraine area. Additionally, it is important, that all visitors are aware of the hazards that are present within the Crag View and Metcalf Moraine terrain. Moats, mounlins, large cliffs and areas of unstable snow and rock are located throughout these moraines and drainages. These features may not be visible from above or below until you are right on top of them. All travelers should be mindful of these obstacles and make it a habit to survey and evaluate the anticipated terrain before you blindly descend, ski, or glissade into an untraveled or unfamiliar territory. Lastly, all overnight and day users are asked to use Blue Bags or Wag Bags to collect and pack out all human waste.
