Snow Level - 6,100 ft.
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| Easton Route as seen from Climber's Camp |
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| Sandy Camp is mostly snow covered excpet for the ridges |
Climbers on the Easton Glacier Route enjoyed another weekend full of sun and blue skies. The route was well travelled this weekend as climbers have been been negotiating three exposed highly crevassed sections on route. Most climbers were observed passing the large crevasse just before the 8,500 ft. bench to the climbers left, as passing the crevasse to the climbers right on the ascent is possible, however, it requires a slight detour off route.
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| Crevasse pior to 8,500 ft. bench |
The corridor between 8,800-9,200 ft. leading up to the crater is showing significant deterioration and travelling through this section was avoided by some climbers observed traversing left of the corridor and alongside it, then ascending up to the crater skipping the section all together. The final 1,000 ft of the route ascends the upper slopes of the Deming Glacier which is showing a few large crevasses all of which entail bridge crossings or step overs. These crevasses are very deep and hazardous and should be assessed thoroughly. Each party should be evaluating each crossings condition, especially in the event of fresh snowfall on the mountain which may be hiding unseen holes or cracks in the snowbridges and crevasse edges..
Additionally, please come prepared with tent anchors in case you are pitching your tent on snow and please do not move rocks from ridges to anchor yout tents with. The dry sites tend to go fast on the weekends so please plan accordingly. Also, please use Blue Bags to pack out your human waste as no mountain toilets are on the mountain this season. Blue Bags can be picked up free of charge from the USFS Sedro-Woolley Visitor Center when you stop in to register for your climb. Thanks and Happy Climbing!
Easton Glacier Route - August 13, 2012
The Easton Glacier Route has received a full week of great weather. Warm temperatures and clear skies have been melting out camp sites quickly. Railroad Camp and High Camp are snow free. Roughly 12 dry campsites exist at Sandy Camp. Another dozen dry sites exist spread throughout Climbers Camp. Parties should be prepared with snow anchors to anchor their tents should they not arrive early enough to get an established dry site. Please do not move rocks or soils to create a new tent pad or to construct walls or windbreaks. Also, please do not move rocks off ridges to tie tents down with. Rocks that are in the area of an established dry tent site are OK, but please resist disturbing buried rocks which are holding soils in place.
Climbers have been getting early morning starts to their ascents and aim to get off the glacier and back to camp by 2:00 p.m, before the warmest period of the day. Crevasse crossings at 8,400 ft. and 8,800 ft. should commonly be evaluated prior to crossing. Enjoy your climb and please remember to use Blue Bags to collect and pack out your human waste. Please use 'Pack it in, Pack it out' practices while on Mt. Baker. Thank you.
Easton Glacier Route - July 25, 2012
The Park Butte Trail is mostly snow free to Rocky Creek and up through the switchbacks to Morovitz Meadows. The meadows remain snow covered up to the railroad grade trail. The trail along the grade is snow free up to Sandy Camps.
The Easton Glacier Route has received up to 6" of new snow above 9,000 ft. with 1-3" of new above 6,000 ft.. The new snow has covered many cracks, holes and crevasses that have recently just been exposed. Ascending the route will require route finding, glacier travel and snow & avalanche assessment.
Sandy camps have roughly 6 dry tent sites and 3 dry sites at climbers camps. Otherwise, all the camping is done on snow. Overnight users should be prepared with snow anchors to anchor their shelters. Running water exists at both Sandy & Climbers camps. Please use Blue Bags for your human waste and dispose of them at the trailhead waste receptacle or at home. Please do not throw them in crevasses or into the trailhead toilets. Please remember to use 'Pack it in, Pack it out' practices on Mt. Baker. Thank you and Happy Climbing.
Easton Glacier Route- July 8, 2012
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| Easton Glacier Route as seen from Sandy Camp |
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| Sandy Camps |
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| Climbers Camps |
Snow Level - 3,300 ft.
The majority of the Park Butte Trail is under snow at this time with sections of the trail melted out through the switchbacks leading to Morovitz Meadows. Rocky Creek crossing is melted out at the Park Butte trail intersection. Boots, poles and gaiters are helpful for the crossing.
Many parties have been out climbing and skiing the Easton Glacier route. Snow conditions on route have been extremely wet and soft recently due to the warmer overnight temps and high freezing levels. Climbers have been religious about getting early morning alpine starts so they can get on and off the glacier early in the day before the afternoon and mid-day heat. Climbers and skiers on route need to keep a heightened awareness during this warming period for changes in the route. What appears to be well blanketed glaciers for the moment is changing quickly and beneath the surface lurks crevasses which riddle the glacier. All parties need to be competent in route finding and have a good understanding of glacier travel.
As of July 8th, only 2 dry tent sites existed at the following camps: Railroad Camp, High Camp and Sandy Camp. Snow camping conditions exist otherwise. Groups should anticipate boiling snow for drinking water as no running water can be found yet at any of the camps. There are no mountain toilets this season on Mount Baker. All users need to be prepared with Wag Bags or Blue Bags for bagging up and packing out there human waste. Blue Bags can be acquired free of charge when you register for your climb at either the Glacier or Sedro-Woolley Visitor Centers. Lastly, be considerate of other visitors, leave absolutely nothing on the mountain and protect the quality of the every ones experience while on Mount Baker.
