|Sunset behind the Twin Sisters.|
|The Easton Glacier from Sandy Camp.|
It is always smart to carry a GPS with a track function, or marking wands, to ensure that you can follow your exact route back to camp when visibility is poor. Weather changes quickly this time of year and all parties should be prepared to descend in a storm.
Pack out all human waste and garbage, including marking wands. Blue bags are available for free from the USFS Service Centers in Sedro Woolley and Glacier. Help us keep the mountain clean. Thanks and happy climbing!
July 11, 2016 - Easton Glacier
|Summit teams have reported good conditions for climbing and skiing.|
Remember to carry extra water, food, and layers of warm clothing on your summit attempt. Weather can change rapidly and it is easy to underestimate how long it will take to reach the summit and descend. Average ascents take about 6 hours and descents around 4 hours. So, plan to be exposed to the elements for at least that long, and bring enough equipment to take care of yourself. The climbing rangers recommend that each climbing team carry on the summit attempt at least one sleeping bag, one stove with fuel and a pot, and one shelter.
15-20 dry tent pads exist at Sandy Camp and Climbers Camp. Running water is available. Mountain toilets will not be flown to the camp areas this year, so please pack out all human waste using blue bags or another system. Blue bags are available for free from the USFS Service Centers in Sedro Woolley and Glacier, where you may also register for your climb, buy maps, and ask questions to the staff at the front desk. As always, happy climbing!
Welcome to the Easton Glacier! The mountain is is great shape and many parties have been reaching the summit. Come out and enjoy this beautiful wilderness.
Trails: Park Butte Trail is mostly clear of snow to about 4500 feet, or just below Morovitz Meadow. Railroad Grade Trail is mostly snow free to Sandy Camp. Fallen trees have been logged off the trails. The footbridge at lower Rocky Creek has been installed.
|Park Butte trail has been cleared of fallen trees.|
|Morovitz Meadow is still covered in snow.|
|Railroad Grade Trail is mostly melted out to Sandy Camp.|
Camps: Two to four tent pads have melted out at Railroad Camp and High Camp. Another 8-10 dry sites are available at Sandy Camp and Climbers Camp. Otherwise, camping will be on snow. Campers are finding running water close to all camps.
Route: Climbers and skiers are following a direct route from Sandy Camp to Sherman Crater and up the final summit wall. Snow bridges are generally in good condition, but all visitors should assess crevasses crossings carefully during their ascent and descent. Warm temperatures can cause rapid changes during the day. Climbers have been navigating a section of crevasses at about 8900 feet by end running to the left and then wrapping back around to head up the corridor to Sherman Crater. The bootpack up the final summit wall heads directly up, eventually angling right toward Grant Peak. Recent snowfall above 8000 feet has kept the glacier smooth, but some sun cups are beginning to develop lower down. Remember to get an early alpine start to avoid the worst of the midday heat.
|Current snowpack on the Easton Glacier.|
Thanks and happy climbing!