Easton Glacier - 2013

Easton Glacier - September 15, 2013
Currently most of the campsites at Sandy and Climbers Camps are snow free with nearby running water available. Toilets do not exist at High, Sandy or Climbers Camps as climbers will need to come prepared with bluebags or another waste removal system in order to pack  out all human waste from the mountain. The Easton Glacier route now has areas between 7,000 ft. and 8,000 ft. with exposed dry glacier and blue ice. A few smaller crossings have also melted out along the route in this section. All parties should be monitoring these recently exposed crevasses and assessing snow bridges throughout the course of the climb for any current changes due to recent warm temperatures and precipitation on the mountain.
As the route approaches the Sherman Crater and summit wall it negotiates a few narrow fins which have short, steep and exposed runouts to crevasses above and below. Parties should exercise caution in these areas by placing protection when necessary and granting space to other climbing teams preventing traffic jams on route. Snow conditions have been noted soft before 10 a.m.  as a result of the recent warm weather. All parties should be shooting for early a.m. alpine starts to mitigate this concern. Blue Bags are available at the Sedro Woolley and Glacier USFS visitor centers. Please be sure to pack out your waste. Enjoy the rest of the season. Happy Climbing!
Easton Glacier - August 5, 2013

The Park Butte and Railroad Grade trails are clear of snow to Sandy Camps at about 6000 feet. Wildflowers are blooming!

Consolidated corn snow exists on the majority of the climbing route. A few small sections of dry glacier are beginning to melt out at various elevations.

The Easton Glacier has been very busy the past few weeks. Dry campsites exist at Railroad Grade Camps, High Camp, Sandy Camp, and Climbers Camps. Running water is also available at these locations. Ravens and mice have been seen around campsites and users should remember to store their food properly. There are no mountain toilets on Mount Baker this season, so all hikers and climbers must pack out human waste using blue bags or another method. Please help keep Mount Baker clean!
Crevasses at about 10,200 feet on final summit wall.
Climbers Camps in current conditions.
A section of significant crevasse crossings begins at about 8700.
The route up the Easton Glacier is still in fine condition for climbing. A large and obvious  bootpack leads from the top of Climbers Camp all the way to the summit. There are a number of significant crevasse crossings along the route. Particularly, there is a large breakup at about 9300 feet just below Sherman Crater. Another series of crevasses exists at about 10,200 feet on the final summit wall. Both of these sections will be changing quickly due to continued warm temperatures and all climbing teams shoulde carefully assess snow bridges before making their ascent. Also, major rockfall has been observed coming off Sherman Peak lately and climbing teams should avoid stopping beneath this hazard. As always, early alpine starts are highly recommended. The summit register on Grant Peak is open and available for your entires. Happy climbing!

Easton Glacier - July 29, 2013

The Park Butte and Railroad Grade trails are clear of snow to Sandy Camps at about 6000 feet. Wildflowers are blooming along the railroad grade and in Morovitz Meadow. 

Consolidated corn snow exists on most of the climbing route with suncups reaching up to 9000 feet. A few small patches of dry glacier are also beginning to melt out on various parts of the route. 

Ridge between Sandy Camp and Climber's Camp.

The Easton Glacier is seeing a lot of use this summer due to the closure to Glacier Creek Road on the north side of Mount Baker. All parties must work to keep the mountain clean, safe, and fun. Dry campsites exist at Railroad Grade Camp, High Camp, Sandy Camp, and Climber's Camp. Running water is readily available throughout these areas. There are no mountain toilets on Mount Baker this season so remember to pack out all human waste using blue bags or another acceptable waste removal system. Food scraps and other garbage must also be removed. Any person found to be littering will be cited and fined. 

Easton Glacier route from Climber's Camp.

Final part of the Easton Glacier route.
The route up the Easton Glacier is becoming more complex as warm summer temperatures continue to melt the snowpack. Many significant crevasse crossings exist between 7500 feet and 10,200 feet. In some instances, climbers have been observed descending into crevasses and climbing out the opposite side in order to cross. An obvious bootpack leads from camp to the summit, but all parties should assess the route and conditions as they ascend and descend. The glacier is changing quickly throughout the day and early start times are highly encouraged. Finally, parties have been observed staying roped up all the way to the true summit because large crevasses are known to exist on the summit rim itself. Happy climbing!    

Easton Glacier - July 15, 2013

Railroad Grade is clear of snow to Sandy Camps.
Sandy Camps has a number of snowfree campsites and running water.
Route up the Easton Glacier.
 The Easton Glacier route is seeing a great deal of use this summer. Dry campsites exist at Railroad Grade, High Camp, Sandy Camp and Climber's Camp. Running water is also now present at Sandy Camps. Sanitation is still an issue near Sandy Camp and above. Leaving behind any kind of waste is absolutely unacceptable. All parties must posses proper waste removal systems and violators will be cited, Please help to keep our mountain clean.

Significant crevasse crossings exist below Sherman Crater. 

Another crevasse exists at 10,200 ft.
Summit register is visible.
The route up the Easton Glacier is in good condition for climbing, although crevasses are beginning to open along parts of the bootpack. Climbers have been observed crossing delicate snow bridges at approximately 9,300 ft. below the crater and 10,200 ft. on the final Deming wall. These features will likely change quickly over the course of the next few weeks. Route finding and conservative glacier travel techniques are required. The summit register on Grant Peak is melted out and available for use. Enjoy the sunshine and happy climbing!

Easton Glacier - July 9, 2013 

The Park Butte and Railroad Grade trails are mostly free of snow to Morovitz Meadows. Consistent snow exists from this point onward, except for on Railroad Grade itself, which is clear of snow to Sandy Camps. 

The Easton Glacier route has seen a high number of climbers in the past few weeks and conditions are changing quickly as the summer continues to get warmer. Nearly 20 dry campsites exist between Sandy Camps and Climber's Camps, but parties should still be prepared to camp on snow because dry sites are usually occupied on the weekends. Running water is not yet available at Sandy Camps or above. Sanitation continues to be a concern in and around these camps. Leaving food waste or human waste behind is absolutely unacceptable and individuals can be fined as much as $100 for this offense. Climbing Rangers will be asking to see group's waste removal systems. Please make sure your party is equipped with blue bags or another acceptable system as violators will be cited. 

Conditions have been soft the past week or so due to warm temperatures at night, which leaves little time for recovery of snow surfaces. Parties are encouraged to get an alpine start. Climbers have been observed traversing far left towards the north on the summit wall in order to end-run a large crevasse at approximately 10,200 feet. Descending parties have been seen taking a more direct route down the summit wall keeping close to the crater ridge on the southern half of the upper Deming Glacier. All parties should constantly asses this route as crevasse crossings will be changing rapidly in the coming weeks. Lastly, please remember to pack out ALL waste. Have fun and happy climbing!  

Easton Glacier - June 24, 2013

Sandy Camps and Climber's Camps with Mount Baker in the background.

The Easton Glacier route has seen heavy climbing and skiing use so far this season. Recent fresh snowfall above 8,000 ft has caused soft conditions and climbers should plan to get an early start in order to descend before midday temperatures soften the snowpack further. Significant crevasses exist on many sections of the route, particularly between 8,800 ft and 9,400 ft below the Sherman Crater. A large crevasse is also beginning to appear on the east side of the final Deming wall. Grant Peak is still snow covered and the climbing register is not yet exposed.

Looking up the route from Sandy Camps
View of mid and upper parts of the route.

Due to the heavy use the Easton Glacier route is experiencing this season, it will be crucial  for all visitors to be practicing "Leave No Trace" principles while recreating on the mountain. There are no mountain toilets on Mt. Baker this year and all visitor must pack out their own waste using blue bags or another system. Blue bags are available free of charge at he Sedro Woolley USFS office.

There are currently no dry campsites at Sandy Camp or above and no running water is exposed. Visitors should carry enough fuel to melt snow into water. A number of marmots have been observed on the slopes around Sandy Camp and the Railroad Grade and visitors are reminded to not feed or disturb wildlife. Good luck and happy climbing!

The upper Deming wall at sunset.
Moonrise view from Mount Baker.

Easton Glacier - June 10, 2013 

Rocky Creek drainage from the glacier near Sandy Camp.

From Baker Lake Road, Forest Road #12 is open and clear of snow to Forest Road #13. Road #13 is open and snow free to within .5 miles of the Schrieber’s Meadow trailhead.

The Park Butte and Railroad Grade trails are snow covered at this time. Snow travel and route finding are required.

Consolidated corn snow exists, soft by late morning and firming up again in evening. Suncups reach up to 6,000 feet.

Looking up the climbing route towards the Sherman crater. 
The Easton Glacier route has seen heavy use this spring due to the closure to Glacier Creek Road #39 and its access constraints to the Coleman-Deming Route and the north side of the mountain. Waste management is a must for mountain visitors, whether day or overnight use. Please be mindful not to leave any trash behind and be prepared to use blue bags or an alternate waste removal system to pack out all human waste. There are no mountain toilets on Mount Baker for the 2013 season. All camping is on snow and currently no running water has been exposed. Be sure to have enough fuel to melt snow into water.

Conditions on the Easton Glacier are common for this time of year. Be sure to get your early A.M. start while surfaces are firm and be off the glacier returning to camp before things warm up and are increasingly changing. In particular, the corridor below the Sherman crater between 8,800 feet and 9,400 feet has numerous crevasses, which intersect the route. Use extreme caution while negotiating this section as it is an exposed bottleneck feature and a common choke-point on the route. Register for your climb at the Sedro Woolley USFS office and get the latest weather forecasts and pick up your blue bags before your climb. Happy climbing!
The Easton Glacier summit wall in current conditions.


Easton Glacier - June 1, 2013

Forest road #13 is open and free of snow to within .5 miles of the Schrieber's Meadow trailhead. Roughly 2-4 feet of snow remains at the parking lot at Schrieber's Meadow. Please drive slow, use caution and watch out for the sections of washboards on the road.

The Park Butte and Railroad Grade trail system which leads to Sandy and Climbers camps still remain fully snow covered. Boots, gaitors and trekking poles are recommended for the hike. Route finding skills are necessary for the trail.

The Easton Glacier Route has recieved new snow above the 7,000 ft mark. Climbers and Skiers travelling after noon can expect to find heavy and wet consolidated corn snow conditions. Terrain below 6,000 ft is already showing suncups. Dry tent sites and running water still do not exist at any of the climbers camps. Overnight users are encouraged to use snow anchors in order to bomb proof and anchor their shelters. All groups should be prepared with a stove and enough fuel to boil snow into drinking water for the duration of their trip.

As a reminder, mountain toilets will not be present on Mount Baker this season. Please use Blue Bags or another waste removal system to collect and pack out your human waste from the mountain. Happy Climbing!