Coleman-Deming - August 30, 2010
It almost felt as though seasons were changing early this weekend as the mountain had received 2-6 inches of new snow over the past few days. Conditions have certainly tempted the climbing rangers to consider digging out the skis for an upcoming weekend sooner than expected. However, dry glacier and exposed patches of firn are not far beneath the surface and can become a serious hazard on skis when in exposed terrain. The route up the Coleman-Deming ascends the first pitch from the Hogsback without much winding around crevasses and reaches the Black Buttes camps after crossing a few cracks in the compression zone also known as the "Football Field." The route keeps to the right of the major Coleman breakup and traverses alongside the Black Buttes to the north as it departs from the Black Buttes camps. Along this section of the route, the boot pack weaves through some large crevasses without much exposure until the bergschrund at approximately 8,800 ft.
The route currently crosses the schrund towards the climber's left in an area only requiring a small step over the airy crack. Protected or belayed crossings are encouraged for smaller rope teams, as all parties are advised to evaluate this section of the climb while proceeding up or down.
A view of the bergschrund crossing and the crack as it grows larger to the climber's right.
A view of the schrund to the climber's left of the route crossing. Climbers will need to traverse further out in this direction in the future to find a way around this obstacle.
Another crevasse just before gaining Pumice Ridge that deserves some attention before crossing.
Pumice Ridge, although now dusted with a few inches of snow, is mostly exposed pumice and scoria. Parties should be conscientious of rock fall generated in this area by other climbers, as well as themselves. Heads up and please and remember to yell ROCK if something is dislodged or cartwheeling down the ridge. The Roman Wall is not currently showing any cracks as of yet, but beware, as many do exist. Lastly, all overnight visitors are asked to use Blue Bags, Wag Bags or another removal system for all human waste. "Pack it in, pack it out" practices please. Happy holidays and climbing to all.
Coleman-Deming - August 14, 2010
The route remains direct from Hogsback to Black Buttes camp. Crevasses are continuing to open up on the first slope up from Hogsback. Climbers should use caution through this area, as this section is crossed first, usually in the dark. As the crevasses continue to open, the route may require you to traverse around these hazards far to the climbers right. The photo on the right is a view of the first pitch of the route after leaving from the Hogsback on the Coleman-Deming.
A medium sized crevasse has opened next to the Black Buttes that climbers should be aware of. Currently climbers are able to step across it. Above the Black Buttes, the climbers route is very well defined, by a 1 foot deep snow trail. The route crosses a snow bridge at 8,500 ft. that should be closely evaluated by climbers. As the snow bridge weakens, the route will need to traverse around the crevasse to the right. Directly above, the snow bridge across the bergschrund remains solid. However, this hazard should always be very closely inspected by climbing parties. Above the saddle most of Pumice Ridge is still passable on snow, but will soon be primarily rock with the warmer weather. The Roman Wall remains very direct. Climbers need to use caution and be aware when crossing over the rock band at the top of Roman Wall. Also, a moat is exposed in some areas. Early travel is recommended to avoid additional hazards on the descent. A reminder to use blue bags and pack out all of your human waste.
Coleman-Deming - August 10, 2010
The Coleman-Deming is still going strong for it being the first week of August. Wet glacier still blankets the route with the beginnings of dry glacier and blue ice showing through in some spots. Crevasses are exposing themselves more regularly now and climbers should not assume that the first pitch above the Hogsback, flats of the football fields or the Black Buttes camping areas are crevasse free safe zones. The bootpack follows its standard course to the saddle and then up to the summit via Pumice Ridge and the Roman Wall. Groups should remain heads up when approaching a series of crevasses around 8,500 ft., as the route will eventually need to be moved as conditions continue to deteorate in this area. The summit register box has finally melted out and is expecting you. Don't forget to sign in! Last but not least, please pack out all your waste and keep the mountain clean for others. Wags bags and Blue bags can be acquired free of charge from either the Glacier or Sedro-Woolley visitor centers. Happy Climbing!
Coleman-Deming - July 19, 2010
The Coleman-Deming is in great shape for July as are most of the routes on the mountain. Overnight temperatures have been hardening snow surfaces down to 6,000 ft. elevations. However, snow has been softening quite quickly and by 10:00 a.m. post-hole conditions can exist even at 10,000 ft. levels. All climbers are encouraged to get an early morning alpine start for ideal climbing conditions. The bergschrund at 8,800 ft. is well covered at the moment but beginning to sag and show signs of deteoration off to the climbers right. A crevasse just before the saddle at approxiately 9,000 ft. currently appears to be the greatest creavasse hazard on the route and should be carefully evaluated before crossing. Climbers should be aware that due to this springs late snow totals, all route conditions appear to be nearly 3 to 4 weeks behind there usual summer schedules. Thus any major crevasse, snow bridge and route deteoration has yet to occur and may begin to exponentially progress over the next month. Climbers should use caution and be observant while on the glacier. Lastly, please pack out all waste. Happy Climbing to you all!
Coleman-Deming - July 5, 2010
There is great coverage on the route and currently an obvious 10 foot wide bootpack which has been used by ascending and descending climbers. Hogsback camps have exposed running water and roughly 12 snow free tent sites at this time. Climbers spending the night at the Black Buttes should be aware of falling rock, which can occur often this time of year. Thus, Black Butte campers should pitch there tents in an area out and away from the Butte cliffs and out of rock fall hazard. Furethermore, climbers camped higher up on the glacier and along the Coleman-Deming route should realize that what now appears well covered, is most likely riddled with crevasses. The Hogsback, Football Field, Black Buttes, and Saddle remain the safest locations to camp along the Coleman-Deming. Lastly, all overnight users need to be utilizing Blue bags, Wag bags or another pack-it-out method for their human waste. Blue bags and Wag bags can be acquired free of charge from the Glacier or Sedro Woolley visitor centers and also from the Heliotrope or Schriebers Meadows trailhead dispensers. Thanks and Happy Climbing!
Coleman-Deming - June 28, 2010
The Coleman-Deming route is in great shape. The route currently has no major crevasse crossings until the bergschrund at approximately 8,800 ft. The forecasted elevation for which rain falls as snow has been fluctuating around the 9,000 ft. level and will continue to do so for the next week. Climbers should be prepared for wet rain and snow conditions for the coming weekend. Also the climbing rangers would like to remind larger groups to space themselves out on the route from other parties while maintaining a 12 person party max unless you are climbing within the National Recreation Area (NRA). Furthermore all overnight users are asked to use pack out methods for all their human waste and to utilize Blue bags from either the trailhead dispensers or from the Glacier and Sedro Woolley visitor centers. Thanks and happy climbing.
Coleman-Deming - June 20, 2010
Wet slushy snow below 8,500 ft. Climbers should be cautious where rock is beginning to expose itself. Post-holing in these spots and over creeks is becoming more common, A few tent spots at Hogsback camp are snow free. The route is still very direct. Climbers should be cautious of crevasses opening in the coming weeks. Evidence of food and human waste was found at Hogsback camp. Please pack everything out that the party packs in. There is a new Blue bag dispenser at the Heliotrope Ridge Trailhead for the public.
Coleman-Deming - June 13, 2010
Wet, slushy snow below 7,500 ft. Firmer corn snow from 7,500 ft. to 9,000 ft. Climbers reported Roman Wall to be covered in an ice crust layer. Climbers using crampons reported it as great for kicking steps. Skiers should use caution. Currently the route is very direct, as many crevasses have not opened up yet. Climbers should be very cautious and aware that these crevasses will begin to open up as temperatures start to heat up. Climbers should also be cautious and aware of avalanche terrain. Wet slab avalanches are still prone to release due to the snow and weather over the past couple weeks. Climbers should be aware that stashing gear behind rocks is not allowed.
Grouse Creek to Grouse Ridge Ski - May 15, 2010
.JPG)
Glacier Creek Road 39 is clear of snow to within 1/4 mile of the Heliotrope Ridge Trailhead. Continue to skin on Forest Road 39 past the bathrooms at the Heliotrope Trailhead; the skin track in the forest behind the bathrooms is no longer in existence due to a lack of snow.
Evidence of wet snow slide activity in Grouse Creek drainage seen in photo to the right. Skiing conditions have been best in a.m. hours, late morning and early afternoon. However, due to the recent warming temperatures and a possibility of rain, conditions may be rapidly changing.
.JPG)
Backcountry Travelers should use extra caution when traversing out of Grouse Creek and underneath Marmot Ridge. Avalanches in the past have originated from the cirque area near the transition of Marmot Ridge into Heliotrope Ridge. .JPG)
Moreover, all recreationalists should be aware of the probability of this major spring avalanche cycle and generally increasingly dangerous conditions through the weekend. 
