Squak Glacier - 2018

May 12, 2018 - Squak Glacier 
Schreibers Meadow was still under more than two feet of snow. 
Road Access: Road #12 was open and clear of snow to the junction with Road #13. Road #13 was clear of snow to within about 2 miles of Schreibers Meadow Trailhead. The snowpack has been melting rapidly and it will not be long before visitors can park much closer to the trailhead. Please park courteously along the side of the road, leaving plenty of space for large vans, trucks, and trailers to get past.

Trail Status: Park Butte and Scott Paul trails were completely snow covered from about half a mile below the trailhead. There were a lot of snowmobilers using the National Recreation Area and they are allowed to do so until there is less than two feet of snow at the trailhead. Snow bridges over creeks and other hazards are treacherous this time of year because they can melt out from below and be much thinner than they appear from above. We prefer to use some sort of flotation—such as snowshoes or skis—to distribute our weight across the snowpack, making for safer and more efficient travel.
Rocky Creek and the Metcalf Moraine area are still covered in snow. 
Snow Level: Continuous snow coverage above approximately 3200 feet.
Snow Observations: We found soft corn snow on all aspects with little overnight recovery occurring due to the warm temperatures. We received reports of some icy sections and breakable crust above 8000 feet.

Route Observations and Additional Information: The route up the Squak Glacier was in typical early-season form, with good snow coverage on most crevasses and direct route finding to Sherman Crater. Cracks were already beginning to appear on the upper summit wall, but these were easily end run by traversing to the climber’s left. Grant Peak was under snow.
Only minor suncupping was developing on the Squak Glacier. 

The route was is typical early-season form. 
Cragview Camp was under snow with no running water visible. Overnight visitors should remember to bring extra fuel for melting snow. Snow anchors for your tent would also be a good idea. 

As always, please pack out all garbage and human waste using blue bags or another system. Blue bags are available for free from the USFS Service Center in Sedro Woolley. Help us protect our water sources and our wilderness so that all visitors may enjoy it. Thanks and happy climbing!