Easton Glacier - 2018

August 30, 2018 - Easton Glacier



Park Butte Trail and Railroad Grade Trail are clear of snow and in good condition to Sandy Camp. Good blueberry picking currently exists along the Park Butte trail. Lower Sandy Camp is completely snowfree at this time with 30+ dry tent sites available. Another 20+ dry tent sites are also available higher on the ridge at Climber's Camp. Running water can currently be found nearby all campsites.

The route up the Easton Glacier is still seeing a lot of activity. Climbers are finding significant crevasse problems at about 7300' above Climber's Camp, 8500' to 9500' below the Sherman Crater, and around 10,200'-10,500' on the final wall leading to the summit. These locations are more complex sections of the route due to the large crevasses, deteriorating snow bridges, icy slopes and exposed terrain. All climbers are reminded to be cautious and aware of rockfall hazards. Climbers have observed rockfall not only coming off Sherman Peak but also in and around Sandy and Climbers Camps. Give suspect areas a wide birth before passing through, especially at night and during periods of low visibility. Remember to not stop for lunch, rest, or to set up camp beneath a rockfall hazard. All parties must make their own assessments of snow bridges, crevasse crossings, and route conditions. This time of year climbers often need to use snow and ice protection to safely ascend and descend the route. Be prepared to do so. Remember to get an early alpine start in order to avoid crossing unstable bridges during the middle of the day while temperatures are highest. 


Please remember to pack out all garbage, including wands, marking tape, food scraps, wrappers, and human waste. Packing out your poop is a mandatory practice on Mount Baker. Please do your part to keep it clean and preserved for future visitors. Blue bags are available free of charge at the USFS Public Service Center in Sedro Woolley. Stop by to pick some up and register for your climb. Good luck and happy climbing!   





July 30, 2018 - Easton Glacier 

Lower Easton Glacier 
Road Access: Road #12 and Road #13 were open and clear to Schriebers Meadow Trailhead. Weekends have been very busy. If normal parking spaces aren’t available, please park courteously along the sides of the road, leaving plenty of space for large trucks, trailers, and other cars to get through.

Trail Status: Park Butte Trail and Railroad Grade Trail were snowfree and in good condition to Sandy Camp. Wildflowers were blooming and marmots were active.

Snow Level: Appx. 6000 feet.
Snow Observations: Soft corn snow on most aspects and elevations. Suncups and runnels developing below 8500 feet. Some patches of bare glacier beginning to appear on route.
Sandy Camp was almost melted out. 
Route Observations and Additional Information: The route up the Easton Glacier was busy last weekend, with many guided and private parties reaching the summit. The obvious bootpack took a fairly direct line from upper Sandy Camp to the bench at 8500 feet, crossing several small crevasses along the way. A section of larger and more complex crevasses existed between the bench and Sherman Crater. Climbing parties made it through there without too much trouble, but that area will be changing rapidly in coming weeks and all visitors should assess snow bridges carefully before crossing. The bergschrund on the final summit wall was also opening up and we observed many parties end-running the crevasse by moving to the climber’s left before cutting back to the right toward the summit plateau. The summit register on Grant Peak was melted out and awaiting your entries.

Most of the tent pads at Sandy Camp were melted out, except for those in the belly to the left of the main camps where about a foot of snow remained. Running water was available throughout the area. Mice and ravens were active, so please remember to store all food in animal proof containers when leaving it at camp.

Packing out human waste and toilet paper is MANDATORY on Mount Baker! 
As always, pack out all garbage and human waste using blue bags or another system. Blue bags are available for free from the USFS Service Center in Sedro Woolley and at many trailhead dispensers. Please help us protect our water sources and keep the mountain clean for future visitors. Thanks and happy climbing!

July 15, 2018 - Easton Glacier 

Road Access: Road #12 and #13 are open and clear to Schriebers Meadow Trailhead. The trailhead has been very busy recently. Please remember to park in a courteous manner that leaves plenty of space for other cars to get past.

Trail Status: Park Butte Trail and Railroad Grade Trail were mostly snowfree to Sandy Camp. The trail was muddy in places and a lot of hikers were stepping to the side to avoid getting their feet dirty. This can cause trail widening and negatively impact the fragile meadows, so please stick to the trail as much as possible. The bridges at Rocky I and Rocky II have been installed.

Snow Level: Appx. 5700 feet
Snow Observations: We observed soft snow on most aspects and elevations with little recovery occurring overnight. There were also several small section of bare glacier visible.

Route Observations and Additional Information: The route up the Easton Glacier was reportedly in typical mid-season condition with only a few sections of major crevasses. As is often the case, the worst of this was found between 8500 feet and 9600 feet on the corridor below Sherman Crater. Most climbing parties were able to navigate this section safely, but it will be changing quickly in coming weeks and all parties should assess snow bridges for themselves before deciding to cross. Significant rockfall was also coming off Sherman Peak and parties should not take breaks beneath this hazard. The final large crevasse on the summit wall was getting bigger, but parties were able to end run it by traversing to the climber’s left before cutting back toward Grant Peak. The summit register was still under snow and should be melting out soon.

Most of the tent sites along the ridge at Sandy Camp were melted out. Snow was still covering most of the sites in the drainage to the left of camp. Running water was readily available throughout the area. Mice and ravens were reportedly very active, so remember to store your food in an animal-proof container.

Finally, please pack out all garbage and human waste using blue bags or another system. Blue bags are available for free from the USFS Service Center in Sedro Woolley. Stop in to pick some up and register for your climb. Thanks and happy climbing!


May 12, 2018 - Easton Glacier 


Road Access: Road #12 was open and clear of snow to the junction with Road #13. Road #13 was clear of snow to within about 2 miles of Schreibers Meadow Trailhead. The snowpack has been melting rapidly and it will not be long before visitors can park much closer to the trailhead. Please park courteously along the side of the road, leaving plenty of space for large vans, trucks, and trailers to get past.

Trail Status: Park Butte and Scott Paul trails were completely snow covered from about half a mile below the trailhead. There were a lot of snowmobilers using the National Recreation Area and they are allowed to do so until there is less than two feet of snow at the trailhead. Snow bridges over creeks and other hazards are treacherous this time of year because they can melt out from below and be much thinner than they appear from above. We prefer to use some sort of flotation—such as snowshoes or skis—to distribute our weight across the snowpack, making for safer and more efficient travel.

Snow Level: Continuous snow coverage above approximately 3200 feet.
Snow Observations: We found soft corn snow on all aspects with little overnight recovery occurring due to the warm temperatures. We received reports of some icy sections and breakable crust above 8000 feet.

Route Observations and Additional Information: The route up the Easton Glacier was in typical early-season form, with good snow coverage on most crevasses and a direct route from Sandy Camp to the 8500-foot bench. There were several large crevasses beginning to open in the corridor section below Sherman Crater, and this area will change rapidly as the winter snowpack melts. There were also several cracks beginning to open on the final summit wall, but these were easily end run by traversing to the climber’s left. Grant Peak was under snow.

Sandy Camp and Climbers Camp were still mostly snow covered, although a few dry tent pads were beginning to melt out along the ridgeline and more will be melting out in coming weeks. There was still no running water visible around camp. Overnight visitors should remember to bring extra fuel for melting snow.

--> As always, please pack out all garbage and human waste using blue bags or another system. Blue bags are available for free from the USFS Service Center in Sedro Woolley. Help us protect our water sources and our wilderness so that all visitors may enjoy it. Thanks and happy climbing!
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