Road Access: Road #12 and #13 were open and clear to
Schriebers Meadow Trailhead.
Trail Status: Park Butte Trail and Railroad Grade Trail were
in excellent condition to Sandy Camp. Ground hornets were active in a few
places along the trail, so keep your eyes and ears open.
Snow Level: 6500ft
Snow Observations: Soft corn snow and several large sections
of dry glacier.
Route Observations and Additional Information: The Easton
Glacier route was in typical late-season condition last weekend. Many climbing
parties made successful ascents, but the route was more challenging than
earlier in the season and requires more technical skill than some visitors
might expect on an entry-level climb of Mount Baker.
From Sandy Camp to roughly 9000 feet, the route was in
relatively good shape. Snow bridges in this area can melt quickly however, and
all teams should assess crossings for themselves on the ascent and descent.
Just because others have traveled over a thin bridge does not mean it is a safe
route.
As usual, significant rockfall was observed coming down from
the buttresses surrounding Sherman Crater. Do not slow down or take breaks
while near this rock. Helmets are recommended. Traveling through there as fast
as possible is the best way to mitigate this hazard.
The most significant obstacle on the route was the final
crevasse/bergschrund at approximately 10,000 feet on the Roman Wall. This crack
has grown much larger in recent weeks and the uphill side had a short,
near-vertical step that climbers were ascending. This is an area where climbers
should exercise extreme caution and use the tools at their disposal to protect
the crossing. Climbers were observed placing pickets and setting up belays to
get their parties up and down safely. If you are unfamiliar with these
techniques or do not have suitable equipment, consider postponing your trip
until next year.
Crevasses can exist on the crater rim, so remember to remain
roped up until you are just below the summit mound. The climbing register on
Grant Peak was melted out and is awaiting your entries.
Sandy Camp was snow free with approximately 50 dry tent pads
available in the area. Running water could be found close to most campsites.
Mice and ravens were active. Remember to store food in
animal-proof containers, especially overnight or when leaving camp during the
day.
Easton Glacier - July 29, 2019
Road Access: Road #12 and #13 were open and clear to
Schriebers Meadow Trailhead. Please do not park on the edges of the loop at the
end of the road because it makes it difficult for vehicles with horse trailers
to get by.
Trail Status: Park Butte Trail and Railroad Grade Trail were
snow free and in great condition to Sandy Camp. Wildflowers were blooming everywhere,
and some blueberries were beginning to appear in Schriebers Meadow.
Snow Level: 6500ft
Snow Observations: The snow firmed up overnight and then
became soft and mushy at all elevations by 11am. A few small sections of dry
glacier were encountered on route. Suncups were present up to approximately 9000
feet.
 |
| Route from appx. 7500' |
Route Observations and Additional Information: The Easton
Glacier route was still in great condition for climbing last weekend, though
there were some areas that will likely become more challenging as the snowpack
continues to melt in coming weeks. The route was very busy, and all climbing
parties completed safe ascents.
 |
| Crevasses at appx. 9000' |
From Sandy Camp to roughly 9000 feet, most crevasses were
easily crossed via solid snow bridges. However, the bootpack occasionally
traveled unnecessarily close to large crevasses and thin bridges. Avoiding such
hazards was often a matter of simply traversing a few feet farther to the left
or right before crossing a crevasse. Just because others have traveled over a
thin bridge does not mean it is a safe route. Teams should assess all crossings
for themselves on the ascent and descent.
 |
| Area of rockfall near Sherman Crater |
Significant rockfall was observed coming down from the
buttresses surrounding Sherman Crater. Do not slow down or take breaks while
near this rock. Helmets are recommended. Traveling through there as fast as
possible is the best way to mitigate this hazard.
 |
| Bergschrund at appx. 10,000' |
The area of greatest concern on the route was the final
crevasse/bergschrund at approximately 10,000 feet on the Roman Wall. The
bootpack traveled to the climber’s left and crossed the bergschrund on a small
snow bridge. However, this bridge will likely be melted out in a few days and a
new route will have to be explored. There appeared to be several feasible
alternatives, such as traversing much farther to the climber’s left or possibly
scrambling up the right side where the crack intersects the rock of Sherman
Crater. The climbing rangers were not able to assess these alternatives.
Climbing parties should expect this area to become progressively more complex
as the bergschrund continues to open.
 |
| Easton Route 7/29/19 |
Crevasses can exist on the crater rim, so remember to remain
roped up until you are just below the summit mound. The climbing register on
Grant Peak was melted out and is awaiting your entries.
Sandy Camp was mostly snow free with approximately 50 dry
tent pads available in the area. Running water could be found close to most
campsites.
 |
| Sandy Camp |
Mice and ravens were very active last weekend. Remember to
store food in animal-proof containers, especially overnight or when leaving
camp during the day.
As always, please pack out all garbage and human waste using
blue bags or another system. Help us keep the mountain pristine so that all
visitors may enjoy it! Thanks and happy climbing!
Road Access: Road #12 and #13 were open and clear to
Schriebers Meadow Trailhead.
Trail Status: Park Butte Trail and Railroad Grade Trail were
snow free to Sandy Camp. Some wildflowers such as partridge foot and phlox were
blooming along the trail.
Snow Level: 6500ft
Snow Observations: The snow firmed up nicely overnight and
then became soft and mushy at all elevations by 11am. No sections of dry
glacier were encountered on route. Suncups were present up to approximately
8500 feet.
 |
| 8500 feet on Easton Glacier |
Route Observations and Additional Information: The Easton
Glacier route was very direct and in excellent condition this weekend. Despite
some clouds and precipitation at lower elevations, many climbing parties made
successful ascents.
From Sandy Camp to roughly 9000 feet, all crevasses were
easily crossed via large snow bridges. The route then traveled slightly to the
climber’s right, winding through an area of significant breakup for a few
hundred vertical feet before traversing back to the left to gain the corridor
below Sherman Crater. The snow bridges in this section appeared solid and there
were several feasible alternatives to the current bootpack. However, the route
through there changes frequently as the snowpack melts. All climbing parties
should assess bridges carefully before crossing.
 |
| Area of breakup at approximately 9000 ft. |
Another place to keep an eye on in coming weeks is the final
crevasse on the route, at approximately 10,200 feet on the Roman Wall. The
bootpack traveled to the climber’s left and crossed the crevasse on a snow
bridge that appeared to have some life left. Again, this area can change quickly
and the route will likely have to be altered as this crevasse grows larger.
 |
| Roman Wall from Sherman Crater |
Crevasses can exist on the crater rim, so remember to remain
roped up until you are just below the summit mound. The climbing register on
Grant Peak was still under snow.
Sandy Camp was partly melted out with approximately 30 dry
tent pads available in the area. Running water could be found nearby.
 |
| Sandy Camp |
As always, please pack out all garbage and human waste using blue bags or another system. Rangers again removed several incidences of human waste from camp and the climbing route. If you notice other visitors who are not packing out their waste, please inform them of the pack-it-out policy. Help us keep the mountain and our water sources clean! Thanks and happy climbing!
Easton Glacier - June 24, 2019
Road Access: Road #12 and #13 were clear to Schriebers
Meadow Trailhead.
Trail Status: Park Butte Trail and Railroad Grade Trail were
snow free to Sandy Camp. There were some muddy sections, but please stay on the
trail to prevent trail widening.
 |
| Morovitz Meadow is snow free! |
Snow Level: Approximately 6500ft
Snow Observations: Soft corn snow at most elevations with
little overnight refreezing.
Route Observations and Additional Information: The Easton
Glacier route was generally in good condition this weekend. Even with some
clouds and low visibility, a lot of climbing parties were able to make
successful ascents. The route was reportedly direct and straightforward.
However, there are several areas to keep an eye on as the
snowpack continues to melt. The breakup at roughly 8900 feet is often one of
the first places that becomes more challenging to navigate. Visitors should
expect the route through there to change in coming weeks. The bergschrund/moat
at roughly 10,200 feet on the final summit wall was also growing wider and may
require a route change soon.
Guides noted that the traverse beneath Sherman Crater
traveled unnecessarily close to the loose rock of Sherman Peak. Climbing
parties should remember to move through there quickly and not take breaks
beneath this overhead hazard.
Sandy Camp was partly melted out with approximately 20 dry
tent pads available in the area. Running water could be found coming down the
rocks on the west side of camp.
 |
| Rocks beginning to appear in Sandy Camp. |
As always, please pack out all garbage and human waste using blue bags or another system. Rangers removed several incidences of human waste from camp and the climbing route. If you notice other visitors who are not packing out their waste, please inform them of the pack-it-out policy. Help us keep the mountain and our water sources clean! Thanks and happy climbing!
 |
| A bit weathery on the Railroad Grade last weekend. |
Easton Glacier - May 27, 2019
Sandy Camp Conditions. May 27, 2019
 |
| Sandy Camp is still mostly snow covered |
Road Access: FS Road #13 was clear to Schriebers Meadow Trailhead. There were still some snow patches in a few parking spaces, but those should melt out quickly.
Trail Status: From the trailhead to about 4500 feet, Park Butte Trail was a combination of dry trail, mud, and patches of soft snow. The snow was melting fast and should be gone from the lower part of the trail soon. Morovitz Meadow and above was still mostly snow covered, though the ridge of Railroad Grade trail was mostly bare. The snow was often hollow around rocks, creeks, logs, and other obstacles. Watch your footing and stay on the trail!
Snow Level: Approximately 4500ft
Snow Observations: Soft corn snow at most elevations with a few inches of fresh snow above 9500 feet.
 |
| Morovitz Meadow is still buried. |
Guides reportedly witnessed an avalanche that originated in a wind slab on the climber’s left side of the Roman Wall, near the final pitches of the Coleman-Deming route. There was recently some fresh snow above 9500 feet and even a few inches can be hazardous when consolidated into a wind slab. It’s early in the climbing season, so avalanches should still be something for climbers and skiers to watch out for.
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