Road Access: Road #12 and #13 were open and clear to
Schriebers Meadow Trailhead.
Trail Status: Scott Paul Trail was snow free to the junction
with the climber’s trail. The climber’s trail was partly snow free to Cragview
Camps.
Snow Level: 6500ft
Snow Observations: Corn snow at all elevations with some
refreezing occurring overnight.
Route Observations and Additional Information: Several
climbing parties made ascents of the Squak Glacier over the weekend, although
the route was a little different than usual. Guides reported that a large
system of crevasses at approximately 9000 feet made the traditional route
unfeasible. As an alternative, climbing parties ascended the Squak Glacier to
approximately 8500 feet and then made a westerly traverse to the upper section
of the Easton Glacier route. This traverse was reportedly straightforward and
in great condition, connecting to the Easton route at roughly 8700 feet. This
is a great option for those who would like to see a less populated part of the
mountain.
Cragview Camps and the Metcalf Moraine were reportedly partly
snow free with several dry tent pads available. Running water wasn’t
immediately obvious but could be found with a bit of searching.
As always, please pack out all garbage and human waste using
blue bags or another system. This is a very sensitive area and visitors must be
diligent with their LNT practices. If you notice other visitors who are not
packing out their waste, please inform them of the pack-it-out policy. Help us
keep the mountain and our water sources clean! Thanks and happy climbing!
Squak Glacier - June 1, 2019
